The Navia River Viewpoints Route: dream landscapes

Western Asturias is full of opportunities to explore its beautiful corners and landscapes. The Ruta de los Miradores del Río Navia, in Boal, passes through several semi-abandoned villages in the mountains, a reservoir dedicated to the production of hydroelectric energy, old buildings of these facilities and spectacular views over the Navia River.

The Ruta Viesgo de Los Miradores del Navia (PR-AS 299), that is its full name, was created by the Viesgo electricity company and the Sociedad de Amigos de Boal. The latter designed the hiking and cycling route, and the former offered its financial support because of its historical connection with this area of western Asturias.

The area we cross on this route alternates between scrubland, small villages and the remains of rural settlements, with the constant feature that every few minutes we can see the River Navia meandering through the mountains.

The recreational area "Puente de Castriyón", at the foot of the ascent to this village is the starting point and where the parking area is located. As this is a circular route, it can be done in either direction, although it is recommended to start from the side of the bridge opposite the picnic area, as described on the information sign.

To show you what the route is like when it is done the other way round, I started from the side of the picnic area.

Passing the small jetty you will reach the shady spot where several benches and tables around the Rio de Roxios or Rio Roginos will tempt you with their good location not to start the ascent.

Ignore these siren songs and climb slowly up the hill. You leave behind you a panoramic view of the River Navia and the bridge that crosses it, and even among the alders, oaks and hazelnut trees you can see the white houses of the village of Castriyón. The murmur you will hear after a while is that of the river itself, which ends in the recreational area (and which you can approach after the first stretch of the climb, on a small bridge, although it is a deviation from the route and you will have to retrace your steps).

This steep climb, with a gradient of 300 metres, is only one of the two more relatively serious ones you will encounter on the route. The end is in the village of Piñera, where your feet will touch the tarmac again for a while.

But not too long. When you cross the village, you enter a mountainous area again, although the road is suitable for tractors and off-road vehicles. The reason is that it is the access to a firebreak, one of those necessary "hachazos" to a mountain to preserve its security in case of fire.

We return to the tarmac and, after a few bends, we come face to face with the abandoned 18th century Verdín Palace, although we can look out to see the courtyard and the buildings around it.

The road continues towards Doiras. Its houses are spread out on the gentle slope of the mountain and it is one of the few truly open countryside spots (the previous one was Piñera) that we have come across so far. We follow the road until we turn off at the crossroads and start to descend towards the school and, further on, the Viesgo Residence, for its engineers and directors.

At this point we turn right and approach two buildings also belonging to Viesgo, but for other employees. Do not go down the road, as it has no exit, but follow the buildings to the end, where it looks like there is only mountain. There, however, the path continues.

The scrubland and nature give way to man and engineering. We come across the Doiras Hydroelectric Power Station, inaugurated in 1934 and producing some 324 GWh per year.

It is essential to look out from one of the concrete balconies over the valley, trying to get an idea of the volume of water behind us. 119 hm3 is just a figure, but turn to the other side, approach the parapet and realise how much it covers.

Afterwards, continue along the road, leaving the views of the reservoir and the river to the right, to leave it shortly after and climb, up the meadow (courage! it is the second and last steep ascent), between fields populated only by cows and the occasional horse.

This is how you reach Silvón, where you will be greeted by its small chapel, dedicated to San Juan. The village is easy to cross and at the end of it, on the right hand side, you will find an opportunity to refill your bottles or canteens at a spring of fresh water from the mountains, maintained by the Society of Friends of Boal.

We have now changed sides and now the Navia River meanders on our left, although it will disappear from view as we approach El Rebollal, little more than a farm and livestock farm, but where its small stone and black slate buildings are of ethnographic interest.

We descend towards the end of the route and there are more and more opportunities to enjoy the views of the river and the high mountains that shade it. Soon we will see the bridge of Castriyón and we will know that the route has come to an end.

It is at this point that I understand why it is recommended to do it the other way round from the way I have done it. The benches of the recreational area, the murmur of the water, the desired shade, are siren songs that I fall into for a while because who is in a hurry to leave a place like this?

Distance: 11.3 km
Time: 4.5 hours.
Difficulty: Easy
Starting point: Google Maps
More information: Boal Town Hall
Wikiloc: Route layout