The Gamonéu Trail: the cheese that stirs up passions

Gamonéu cheese is so closely linked to the Picos de Europa that it is almost impossible to understand this gastronomic delight – which has been intrinsically linked to human wisdom and survival for centuries – without immersing oneself in this unique environment known as the ‘Picos ecosystem’.

It is not known for certain how or when it first came into being, nor who the pioneers were in making that very first Gamonéu. The only certainty is that this great lord of the mountains and valleys forms part of the pantheon of those indispensable, anonymous human creations.

A secret passed down from generation to generation

Both the older and younger generations categorically state that they have learnt all the secrets of its production from their parents or grandparents, who in turn learnt them from their own forebears. Thus, the history of Gamonéu is one of knowledge and flavour passed down from generation to generation.

There are few cheeses in the world that come in two varieties with such distinct character: the Gamonéu from the mountain pass and that from the valley; and there are few cheeses on the Iberian Peninsula produced at such high altitudes – specifically referring to the one from the mountain pass.

And, of course, there are few cheeses in the world that have been developed and are produced in landscapes as sublime as the meadows and sheep pastures of the Picos de Europa themselves.

To be more precise, of the three massifs that make up the Picos de Europa, it is the western one – also known as the Cornión – where shepherds keep the production of this cylindrical treasure alive. Gamonéu is made both in the sheepfolds and in the villages, and matures in caves – just some of the many found in the karstic, rugged Picos de Europa.

Two varieties and one destination

Of the two varieties, the Gamonéu del puertu is the more seasonal, as it is produced from June to September in the high mountain passes of the municipalities of Onís and Cangas de Onís, and the sheepfolds where this prized delicacy is born are numerous and breathtakingly beautiful. Almost mythical names such as Orandi, Huesera, Gumartini, Fana, Comeya, Enol, or Ercina—all on the Cangas side—or Soñin, Belbin, Parres, Las Bobias, Las Fuentes, Vega Mayor or Ario, on the Onís side, make up the vast landscape of the high-altitude Gamonéu.

In the valley, production is not seasonal; rather, the villages work tirelessly throughout the year to produce the finest cheese.

Gamonéu, which takes its name from the place name shared by two villages: Gamonéu de Cangas and Gamonéu de Onís, is much more than just a cheese. It is a hallmark of identity that has endured and survived, almost miraculously, to this day. A symbol of identity that blends three types of milk: cow’s, goat’s and sheep’s. It is also a traditional treasure, a source of constant creativity and innovation for signature cuisine.

That is why embarking on a Gamonéu cheese trail will prove to be a rewarding, educational and very tasty experience.

A truly delicious itinerary

A tour of the Gamonéu region in the Onís area will leave you genuinely and pleasantly surprised – as you’d expect.

Your first stop on this cheese-tasting journey will be in Benia, the capital of the Onís district, and the epicentre of the ‘Gamonéu world’, alongside the neighbouring district of Cangas de Onís.

It is in Benia, in fact, that the Gamonedo Cheese Festival is held annually (on the last Sunday in October), an event that transcends local boundaries to become a major gastronomic and cultural celebration where you can taste and buy the finest Gamonéu cheeses in the world, always in a lively atmosphere.

Benia is, after all, a village with great appeal and a quiet charm. Bars and restaurants where you can sample traditional Asturian home cooking, just as it’s always been, in a lively atmosphere; small, peaceful squares where you can enjoy a snack, a vermouth or a chat over a coffee; hospitable locals, well-accustomed to the comings and goings of tourists; cheese shops and gourmet delis; charming hotels perfect for unwinding. And in the centre of the village, as a symbol of our identity and a reminder that we are in one of the capitals of the Gamonéu region, stands a sculpture recreating a scene that has been repeated for centuries in the area: a shepherd with his dog, that faithful friend who helps him tend the livestock in the mountain passes and sheepfolds…

After a leisurely stroll through Benia, it’s time to delve into the beauty of the highlands and head for the villages of Gamonéu de Onís and Cangas.

You climb and climb, passing such renowned hamlets as Boviabaxu and Boviarriba along the way, and suddenly Demués appears, as if hanging from a hillside.

A dreamlike path towards the Soñin sheepfold

There in Demués, you’ll set off on foot along a track which will lead you, amidst stunning panoramic views, to the Soñin sheepfold. It’s an ideal route for taking in the scenery, where you’ll see Gamonéu de Onís in the distance, literally hanging from the mountainside as if it were a climber abseiling. As you gain altitude, the landscape gradually gives way from lush greenery to an endless open-air gallery offering a 360-degree view of mountains stretching all the way to the sea. The Camba viewpoint, on the way to Soñin, offers the perfect vantage point to take in this boundless beauty and appreciate the rugged terrain of Gamonéu.

On the way to the mountain pastures, with a bit of luck you’ll come across shepherds with their flocks of sheep and goats, their dogs, and their cows… You’ll realise that you’re drawing closer to the very heart of the Gamonéu.

And so, little by little, almost as if by magic, you arrive at Soñin, a sublime mountain pasture where you’ll begin your initiation into the Gamonéu del Puerto region. You enter the idyllic world of the shepherds of the Picos de Europa, who since time immemorial have survived in the high mountains by making cheese. These cheeses served for decades as a form of currency for bartering and for improving their living conditions, which were by no means easy in days gone by.

Belbín, a sheepfold straight out of a film

After enjoying Soñin (which you can reach by car), you can take the track (on foot from here) that leads to Belbín; at the start of the path, you’ll be treated to a spectacular view of the famous Vega de Comella – where there used to be a lake – and you’ll also catch a glimpse of some of the peaks of the Western Massif of the Picos de Europa, with their limestone hues and snowfields that glisten in the sun and seem to caress the sky.

You’ll soon come to the Las Mantegas meadow, so named because of the large quantities of butter that shepherds used to make at the mountain pass. The meadow is flat, green and peaceful – ideal for a contemplative stop. In the blink of an eye, once you’ve passed the meadow, Belbín comes into view; you’ll reach it after a half-hour’s leisurely walk from Soñin.

Belbín strikes you as a vast green amphitheatre dotted with huts and cows, which, with their bleating, take centre stage in a concert with the world’s finest acoustics, their sounds reaching the mountain peaks and the clouds.

In Belbín, you lose all sense of time and space. It’s as if you’ve been transported into a pastoral novel or onto the set of a film set in the heart of nature. And you’ll be able to experience the magic of Gamonéu del Puerto, if you’re lucky enough to come across the shepherds there.

Two villages and a single cheese

With a heavy heart, you’ll realise it’s time to head back, especially as you missed out on visiting Gamonéu de Onís and Cangas on the way up.

The truth is that these two villages, which share a name and a close-knit community, are places well worth stopping off at. Their residents are calm and hospitable, and they’ll soon regale you with all sorts of stories about the cheese and the area, and invite you to try some if they have any to hand.

These two hamlets encapsulate, in their very landscape, the spirit of Gamonéu cheese: rugged and high up, as if gazing at the sky yet with their feet firmly on the ground. Simple and unassuming. Full of secrets. Beautiful and unassuming. Full of knowledge and flavour, just like the finest of the cheeses that bears their name.