12 places that will surprise you in western Asturias

Western Asturias is a great giant. A giant because of its geographical extension, the beauty of its landscapes, the intensity of its history, the kindness of its inhabitants and, in short, its natural and cultural wealth.

When we speak of western Asturias we are referring to the immense and fertile lands that make up the whole of western Asturias, from the coast to the interior, encompassing four large and charismatic regions: Oscos-Eo, Navia-Porcía, Comarca Vaqueira, and Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña and Ibias.

In all of them there are magical places to visit, which will make you experience unique moments that will become unforgettable memories. Here are a dozen must-see places that are a must on your itinerary of leisure and enjoyment in this part of Asturias, where every minute becomes an unexpected discovery.

The Eo, an estuary full of surprises

The Eo estuary is one of the most beautiful and varied estuaries on the Asturian coast. This protected area, which also forms part of one of the seven Asturian Biosphere Reserves, that of Río Eo, Oscos and Terras de Burón, is a true haven for marine flora and fauna, including birds.

But this estuary is also perfectly navigable. What is more, to enjoy its beauty to the full, a boat trip is highly recommended, and if you do not have this possibility, it is wonderful to contemplate it from any of its banks, especially from the towns of Castropol and Figueras, which are spectacular balconies overlooking the estuary.

In both Figueras and Castropol you can enjoy their historic centres, sitting and contemplating the estuary from the terraces with panoramic views that exist in both villages. To satisfy your appetite, the best thing to do is to sample the excellent seafood cuisine in one of the restaurants.

And from both the port of Figueras and Castropol you can embark on the adventure of different nautical activities and you can even observe oyster farming and, of course, taste them on land. Oysters from the Eo are an exquisite delicacy!

Navelgas, the capital of imperial gold

Navelgas is the great capital of historic gold in Asturias. It is well known that the Romans set their eyes on western Asturias because of the large reserves of gold in its subsoil, and the mark of this great Empire is visible today in the many mines they left on the ground for posterity, and which are clearly perceptible today.

For this reason Navelgas is the true epicentre of this golden dream of so many centuries, and has a gold museum - the MOA - where you can learn more about this curious history. There is also a gold route from here, where you can see in situ the gold deposits exploited by the Romans for the manufacture of imperial coinage.

Navelgas, with its old quarter and its riverside promenade, is a unique place, full of charm, where gold panning is a deeply-rooted river activity, so much so that this village often becomes the national and international capital of panning thanks to the celebration of different championships. A visit to Navelgas will be a real gold bath!

The Ethnographic Museum of Grandas de Salime, a treasure trove of times past

This museum, located in the beautiful village of Grandas de Salime, is a place where you can see real ethnographic gems that show you the way of life in the villages of western Asturias in previous centuries.

The Ethnographic Museum of Grandas de Salime - with almost thirty-five years of existence - is a great compilation of the rural knowledge of many centuries and has been a key element in preventing the loss of all this knowledge and collective memory. Founded and promoted by the legendary Pepe el Ferreiro, the museum consists of three main buildings that are an exponent of the traditional architecture of the area: Casa Rectoral, Casa del Molinero and A Casoa. The open transit spaces are punctuated by smaller architectural structures and furniture elements of specific purpose, which are also integrated in the exhibition and among which are the mill, the hórreo, the panera, the cabazo or the chapel.

It is true that a detailed visit leaves you with your mouth open at every step, because there are dozens of gadgets that will be new to you and some have been key to survival in the rural environment, making it possible for human life to have evolved to the present day.

The Ethnographic Museum of Grandas de Salime will be an exquisite journey into the past that will help you understand the present!

The Forest of Mual, the gateway to the greenest heart of western Asturias

There is a village in the council of Cangas del Narcea called Mual, where a path begins that, if you follow it, will take you to the other side of the river, and will take you into a chestnut forest that looks like something out of a children's story. This path is a simple route through the Munieḷḷos forest, a Biosphere Reserve, and therefore represents the gateway to the greenest and leafiest heart of the southwest of Asturias.

As you wander through the forest you will see "corripas", which are circular constructions with stone masonry enclosures used to store the chestnut hedgehogs and leave them there to "cure" until the fruit comes off easily.

On this hidden path you will walk through the terrain on the banks of the Munieḷḷos river, and you will see beech woods as well as "cortinos", which are circular stone constructions whose function is to protect the beehives from the gastronomic greed of the Cantabrian brown bear.

After crossing the beech forest, the path continues ascending towards the Montecín viewpoint, from where you can see the village of Mual, the Connio pass and the lower part of the Munieḷḷos Integral Nature Reserve.

Your walk through the forest of Mual will be a real treat for the senses!

Cudillero or the world's most colourful amphitheatre

Who hasn't heard of the famous amphitheatre in Cudillero? This seaside town in Asturias is as charismatic as it is beautiful, and as unique as it is admired.
Hanging literally from the side of a mountain, Cudillero is colourful and cheerful, and exudes its seafaring past and present from all four sides.

The watchtower, the lighthouse, the harbour promenade and the little square where its amphitheatre ends are places not to be missed during a stay in Cudillero.

And if you happen to be there on 29 June, the feast of St. Peter, you should not miss the famous and multitudinous L'Amuravela street crier, where the events of the year are narrated in Pixueto (the locals' own language), with humour and irony.

If you take a stroll around the fishermen's quarter, you will see something unique in Asturias: at the doors of the sailors' houses, almost like a calling card or badge, you will see small dehydrated sharks. These are the famous curadillos, which in times gone by were an everyday food and are a unique delicacy. And they are also an example of popular wisdom for survival, as leaving them to dry outside the door of the house was a refrigerator formula for always having the food preserved.

This and many other curiosities, as well as a peculiar orography that makes Cudillero literally hidden by land and sea, will give you a clear idea that you have really arrived to a very special place, cradle and inspiration of artists!

The river Navia, a highly recommended river experience

The Navia is one of the great Asturian rivers. One of those that mark the fluvial and natural character of this land. Its impressive flow and the landscapes through which it flows make a kayak descent on this river, and even on some of its tributaries such as the river Polea, a truly recommendable experience.

On the Navia you will feel like a pioneering adventurer, one of those who make history and discover the many nooks and crannies of a river. The exuberance of the vegetation, the size of the river, the natural and rural life of its banks... Everything will make you feel like a unique being in a unique moment. Navigating the Navia is sailing through a haven of peace, with calm and time for everything: a stop, a photo, a pic-nic...

Without a doubt, it is one of those activities that leaves you wanting more!

Salas or the pleasure of discovering the Primitive Way of St James

From Oviedo/Uviéu to Grandas de Salime, the Way of St. James winds brilliantly through western Asturias, and at every stage, at every moment, a surprising reality appears before your eyes: be it a medieval village, a monastery, a waterfall, a bridge, a bench on the road with panoramic views, and so many other personal and non-transferable discoveries.

Salas is precisely one of these medieval villages, whose historic quarter, through which the Primitive Pilgrim's Way to Santiago de Compostela passes, will leave you dazzled. The Castle of Valdés-Salas and the Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor are two of the most notable monumental and historical landmarks, set in a very Jacobean atmosphere, with a constant stream of pilgrims of all nationalities who stop off in this eternal town to contemplate its historic quarter, or simply to enjoy its peace and quiet, good cuisine and hospitality.

In Salas, discovering all the charm of the Camino de Santiago will be a pleasure!

As Veigas, an authentic lost village

Can you imagine a completely bucolic village, like something out of the imagination of the most sensitive of artists? Well, that is exactly what As Veigas is like, located in the no less bucolic council of Taramundi.

As you approach the winding road that leads to As Veigas, you will glimpse in the distance, at the bottom of the valley and in the middle of an imposing leafy wooded area, a small, hidden hamlet.

As you arrive, the rural dream takes on a real dimension and As Veigas appears in all its splendour, with its impeccable houses and its black slate roofs glistening in the sun, as if time had not passed.

In As Veigas you'll feel like you're in a real lost village!

Ḷḷuarca, the whitest village in the Bay of Biscay and the only one with a Nobel Prize

Ḷḷuarca, capital of the council of Valdés, is the whitest of all the Asturian fishing villages. This colour will be a must for your eyes when you take a panoramic view from any of the high vantage points in this historic town.

Famous for its beauty, its atmosphere, its good seafood cuisine, its tide tables, its lighthouse and its cemetery, Ḷḷuarca is also internationally renowned for being the birthplace of Nobel Prize winner Severo Ochoa, one of the fathers of modern biomedicine, who is buried in his native town, and whose death is precisely 25 years ago this year 2018.

It will always be a pleasure to stroll around Ḷḷuarca and have a cider in one of its lively terraces or stroll around its shops, or go to its famous Kissing Bridge, or contemplate its historic quarter, with its modernist and Indian reminiscences.

The Asturian coast is dyed white, like the foams of the Bay of Biscay!

O Mazonovo, a place to enjoy the old hydraulic mills.

Very close to Santalla, capital of the council of Santa Eulalia de Oscos, there is an 18th century water mill, in a place called O Mazonovo. This whole area of western Asturias is dotted with hydraulic devices for harnessing water as an energy source for rural survival, and O Mazonovo is a clear example, very well preserved and in working order.

Here you can experience the combined magic of water and fire, and see for yourself the art of the "ferrería" (forge). Besides, the place is idyllic: a small river, a bridge and a group of buildings - including a mallet - with the characteristic architecture of the Oscos region based on local stone and black slate.

Or Mazonovo is the perfect place to enjoy the old waterworks in peace and quiet!

Argul, the charm of a different medieval village

There are many medieval vestiges that Asturias preserves in its towns, villages and cities, but what you will see in Argul, in the council of Pesoz, is quite different from everything else.

Located in a mid-mountain area, Argul - declared an Asset of Cultural Interest - is today an almost uninhabited village that will give you an idea of what life might have been like centuries ago in a rugged and isolated area. This is precisely where part of its charm lies.

Another notable singularity is its architecture, based on sober stone buildings leaning on the natural rock and in some cases on the wall of the road, leaving tunnels in the middle for the passage of people and livestock. All of this forms a complete network of underground landscapes beneath the houses themselves, which in "fala" (the western Asturian language) are called "veiriles".

These tunnels and passages form a route underneath the houses, and these are linked at the top by high wooden corridors, so that you can walk through the village without stepping on the ground.

It's such a special and unique architectural framework that you'll feel like you've travelled back to the Middle Ages!

The beach of Mexota, to look out over the coast in all seasons

The beaches of Tapia de Casariego are internationally renowned, and no wonder. The coast of Tapia de Casariego is simply spectacular and most of its beaches are a must for surfers from all over the world.

One of these idyllic beaches, with little overcrowding, is that of Mexota. This beach is ideal for a stroll along the coast in any season of the year, hot or cold, and a leisurely stroll along its fine sands, with the Pantorgas Islands or the prominent island in the shape of a mountain range that divides it in two as a backdrop.

The beach of Mexota, very close to the village of Santa Gadea, is an exotic sight, especially when the sunset or sunrise light caresses its rocky shapes.

Mexota beach is well worth a walk or a good swim!