A Paicega and Argul, two places to get to know Asturias' past

The municipality of Pesoz is one of the smallest in the Principality of Asturias, yet it is home to some real gems of our heritage that you should definitely get to know. In this article I suggest two simple routes through this rugged area of south-western Asturias that you can do on foot, by bicycle or in your own vehicle, taking you to the medieval village of Argul and the abandoned village of A Paicega. A real journey into the past!

The parish of Pesoz is the only parish in the council and also its capital. It has a museum dedicated to wine, as vines are grown in this rugged area of western Asturias. They also practise viticulture in other neighbouring councils that enjoy the same particular microclimate, and even have their own designation of origin, the P. P. Cangas DO.

Also of note in Pesoz is the Romanesque church of Santiago and the Palacio de Ron, built in the 17th century for Álvaro Díaz, descendant of a powerful lineage that was very popular in the lands nourished by the rivers Eo and Navia. Next to this manor house you can start the routes I suggest below.

Although there is evidence that the Albiones (an Astur-Galaic people) settled in the Alto Navia mountains and that the Romans of the "Conventus Lucensis" dominated the territory to control the extraction of gold in open-pit mines, Argul does not appear in the historical archives until 30 May 972. The families of Argul have always lived from agriculture and stockbreeding, especially from the cultivation of vines and cereals. Throughout the Middle Ages they built a total of 30 farmhouses perfectly adapted to the complex orography of the terrain.

Argul grew up on natural rock that conditioned the construction of their homes. The rock allowed them to build large houses without the need for foundations or strong walls. However, the slope of the hillside forced them to create a succession of corridors and tunnels to connect the living quarters.

The Argul farmhouses were organised around a central courtyard where they placed dovecotes and hórreos (granaries), built entirely of local materials (slate, wood and clay). Through the veiriles (tunnels) they moved the livestock and used the corridors to move from one room to another without having to go outside.

Famous in Argul is the House of Vilar for having a tunnel almost 20 metres long, or the House of Juan Alonso Villabrille y Ron, a sculptor at the Court of Philip V. Also noteworthy is the Chapel of San Antonio, built on the rocky outcrop and with a curious Baroque altarpiece adapted to the limited space inside.

The architecture of Argul is one of the most unique in the Principality of Asturias, which is why its Historic Site was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest in 2004.

Five kilometres separate the medieval village of Argul from the capital of the council. You can get there in your own car or by taking a pleasant stroll. If you choose the latter option, you will follow the River Agüeira Route, signposted as a short distance footpath PR. AS-117 and is 10 kilometres long. This route, perfectly signposted, does not involve any difficulty and is suitable for mountain biking. The path goes through the forest, so the surface is uneven and in some sections it is steeply sloping. It is also on tarmac, but as it is in an isolated area, vehicle traffic is practically non-existent.

If you leave your car next to the Palacio de Ron you will find the access to the route of the Agüeira River, passing the pilgrims' hostel. This first section, which descends steadily, enters the riverside forest until it reaches the river. Following the signs, cross to the other bank and ascend through a beautiful chestnut grove. You then descend to Molín de Sequeiros, where there is a small area that invites you to rest and, weather permitting, to bathe. From here, the route climbs steadily until it reaches the access road to Argul. Return along the road until you come to a turning on the right that will take you straight back to Pesoz up a steep slope.

Many tourists travel to the southwest of Asturias seduced by the incredible scenery of the Navia Valley. A key point on the route is the Salime waterfall, one of the most spectacular in the region. The Grandas de Salime reservoir is the largest in Asturias, and its dam was the largest in Europe for a time. This colossal work, completed in 1955, took only a decade to complete.

In order to carry out the project, it was necessary to build several villages where they welcomed more than 3,000 workers from all over Spain, and they alsocreated a 40-kilometre cable car line connecting El Espín - Coaña - with the main village. They also created a 40-kilometre cable car line connecting El Espín - Coaña - with the main settlement, which they used to transport the material without having to depend on the tortuous - and precarious - road connections.

The most important settlement was A Paicega, home to many families for 10 years.They had, among other services, housing, a school, canteen and hairdressing salon.

When the work was finished, the workers abandoned the settlements. Nowadays, the foundations of the houses with the remains of some tiles, the windows and the wash basins are still standing. Only the church of A Paicega remains undisturbed since it was consecrated in 1948 to the Virgen de La Luz. Thanks to a neighbourhood initiative, it is being restored to house a cultural space.

Also worth mentioning is the A Paicega viewpoint, located in the lower part of the village and with privileged views of the canyon of the river Navia.

The second route I suggest starts at the Pesoz fountain, located opposite the Palacio de Ron. The ascending path between the houses soon turns into a path that crosses an autochthonous forest of chestnut and oak trees. Although it is gaining height, it is a gradual climb that is very easy to follow. You then reach a forest track where you turn right. This will take you to the village of Sanzo. Cross the village and follow the dirt track, which will take you to the village of A Paicega. To return you can either retrace your steps or go back along the road. This route is signposted as PR AS-169 and is 8 kilometres long (outward and return). This route is also suitable for mountain bikers.

If you want to do both routes on foot in a weekend, you can spend the night in Pesoz. In the village there are several rural lodgings and a restaurant, where you can taste traditional Asturian cuisine.

Argul is a village where some families still live. Although it may seem uninhabited due to the dilapidated state of most of the farmhouses, it is a living village. Try to be empathetic with its neighbours, and of course, ask permission before entering their property.

While you are visiting the village of the workers who built Salto de Salime, take a look at the Saltos del Navia hydroelectric power station. A one-hour guided tour - free of charge - that will show you more about this jewel of Asturian industrial heritage.

And while you're in Pesoz, very close by, just 7 km away, is the Ethnographic Museum of Grandas de Salime "Pepe el Ferreiro", a highly recommended visit in the area.