The 10 most interesting things to see and do in Llanes

Both the town of Llanes and the municipality of Llanes are characterised by the striking beauty of their landscapes and by a rich and vibrant history, which is still very much alive today and makes this part of Asturias one of the most attractive destinations in Spain for locals and visitors alike. That is why Llanes – both the town and the municipality – is bustling all year round, and you can meet people from all over the world there.

The settlement we now know as the town of Llanes is very ancient and, as early as the Middle Ages – following the town charter granted by Alfonso IX of León – it was a notable administrative, military and religious centre, as well as boasting an important port and a significant presence of local nobility. These truly privileged conditions made it a settlement that had to be defended and protected against possible invasions. Hence, the town was completely walled. All that remains from that period is the northern section of the wall – the largest in Asturias – and a solid, round keep, also dating from the 13th century, which was an austere military structure and is now flanked by the Casino, a beautiful ‘Indiano’ building dating from 1910.

But Llanes is much more than just a very noble and loyal town – it is also illustrious, distinguished, elegant and full of character. The municipality boasts more than 30 beaches, each more idyllic than the last, and beautiful coastal villages. Further inland, picture-perfect hamlets, valleys and mountains form a landscape that blends with the foothills of the Sierra del Cuera, often providing a privileged vantage point from which to admire the Picos de Europa.

The town’s historic centre, the ‘indiana’ architecture, the sea and mountain viewpoints, the coastal path, the Northern or Coastal Way, the cove of El Vau between Barru and Niembru, the Ethnographic Museum of Eastern Asturias, the ‘bufones’(geyser-like formations), the ‘castros’(ancient hill forts), and the inland beaches are just some of the unmissable natural and cultural treasures on a tour of Llanes and its municipality. What’s more, there are places where you can enjoy delicious food, from restaurants and cider houses to beach bars; shops perfect for all kinds of shopping – including gourmet delights, of course; Festivals of Tourist Interest; trendy spots setting the latest trends… You’ll find all this and much more in a place unlike any other in the world called Llanes.

Let’s set off on our fascinating journey!

When you’re strolling through the historic centre of Llanes, don’t forget to look down at the ground… Why? So you can read and enjoy the verses, forged into the stones, from Celso Amieva’s book *Poemas de Llanes* – they’re absolutely marvellous. It’s highly likely that this is the only historic centre where you’ll find work of such high quality engraved in wrought iron on the stones that make up its pavement, and composed with such love for Llanes…

Look up from the ground to take in your surroundings, and you will see a town with a medieval character that still bears the marks of its medieval walls and ancient gateways. The walls include one of the most remarkable sections still standing in northern Spain.

El Torreón; the house of Juan Pariente – the oldest in Llanes – situated on Calle Mayor; the Rivero or Gastañaga Palace; the Posada Herrera Palace; and the striking Baroque-style Palace of the Duke of Estrada, a vast building with two square towers on its main façade, are just some of the landmarks in this historic centre.

Likewise, the Basilica of Llanes, built in the Gothic style and begun in the 13th century – hence its Romanesque features – and adorned with spectacular bougainvillea on its outer walls, is another of these special places. Rounding off the tour are the Casa del Cercáu; the Chapel of La Magdalena, situated in the square of the same name and dating from the 13th century; and the Plaza de Santa Ana, a square in the historic centre where the Chapel of Santa Ana is located. This chapel was originally situated outside the city walls, next to the San Nicolás Gate, and today Santa Ana is the patron saint of Llanes’ sailors.

However, you cannot leave the town of Llanes without savouring its intangible yet equally delightful heritage: its customs, traditions, festivals and way of life. Llanes has a festive culture that you won’t find anywhere else.

Llanes’ unique festival tradition is based on the peaceful rivalry between three groups: La Magdalena, San Roque and La Guía. These groups are not religious brotherhoods but rather associations in which the residents of Llanes come together in open and friendly competition. What’s more, each faction is represented by its own symbols: a religious icon, a specific date and month of celebration, a flower and a piece of music, amongst others.

You’ll therefore discover that the town of Llanes has three Festivals of Tourist Interest, one for each of its factions: La Magdalena, with its Chapel of La Magdalena, celebrated in July; San Roque, with its San Roque Chapel, which takes place in August; and La Guía, with a beautiful chapel on the outskirts of the town, which takes place in early September.

Furthermore, just outside the town, you can enjoy two other Festivals of Tourist Interest: in the lovely village of Nueva, the Festival of Santo Cristo del Amparo, which takes place in mid-September, and in the beautiful village of Cue, La Sacramental, which is held on 24 June.

Llanes is a town that has always looked out to sea. First through its harbour, and later, as time went by and the leisure industry emerged, through its beaches.

There are three beaches in this fishing village: El Sablón ( pictured at the top of this post), Puertu Chicu and Toró. Each one is more beautiful than the last and truly representative of the Llanes coastline, and all three are very different from one another.

El Sablón is situated in the heart of Llanes, at the foot of the legendary and spectacular San Pedro promenade, and very close to the harbour. Semicircular in shape and with fine white sand, it is sheltered from the waves, so when the tide is calm, it becomes a veritable natural swimming pool with marvellous views. It is the best spot from which to admire the walls of Llanes and the climb up to the San Pedro promenade. What’s more, it’s usually very busy with both locals and visitors.

Puertu Chicu is the least well-known of the town’s three beaches, yet the one most frequented by the residents of Llanes. It is a small, horseshoe-shaped cove, situated between the lighthouse and Punta Huerto Roque. Situated at the eastern end of the town, you’ll come across it on your way to Toró beach. It has the distinctive feature that at high tide it almost disappears, leaving just a narrow strip of sand and stones, whereas at low tide the beach triples in size.

Toró is the most distinctive of the three beachesin terms of scenery. Its combination of jagged rocks and sand gives it a unique morphology. The waves are usually moderate, so swimming is perfectly safe, and the area also features a footpath, a viewpoint and a restaurant, making it the perfect spot to enjoy the views and the atmosphere whilst sampling the delicious local cuisine.

There are few harbours in the world quite like that of Llanes. Because of its narrow layout, shaped by the natural landscape, where the River Carrocéu flows into the sea. Because of its splendid views of the Cuera. Because of its proximity to the impressive San Pedro promenade and viewpoint.

And also because the expansion works carried out in the late 20th century culminated in an artistic intervention that is unusual for this type of setting and highly original: On the harbour breakwater, the artist Agustín Ibarrola designed and created one of his best-known works, entitled *Los Cubos de la Memoria* (The Cubes of Memory). Through this work, you will discover the artist’s memory, the memory of art and the memory of the region.

This magnificent work was carried out in three phases: the first began in the summer of 2001, the second was carried out in 2003, and the third and final phase was completed in December 2006. The artist painted cubes – some figurative and others abstract – on both the south and north faces of the breakwater, and today more than 200 concrete blocks are decorated, transforming the port of Llanes into a vast open-air museum of memory.

Of all the districts in Asturias, Llanes is the one that has most often served as a natural film set for cinema, television and audiovisual productions in general. Its landscapes, its atmosphere, its ambience, its history, its people… everything about Llanes is a profound source of inspiration for the seventh art.

And to help you enjoy and discover these wonderful locations from various film shoots, the tourism and cultural project known as ‘Llanes de cine’ makes it very easy for you. This film trail will allow you to visit up to 25 locations where dozens of scenes from feature films, short films and television series were filmed. At the locations, you’ll find signs providing information about the film shot there, the year of release and the director, whilst other signs give details of the full route, listing locations and films.

You’ll be able to see various sights in the town of Llanes: the historic centre, the Paseo de San Pedro, the harbour, the Chapel of La Magdalena, Plaza Parres Sobrino, Toró Beach and Partarríu Palace . You’ll also see sights to the east and west of the town.

To the east of Llanes: the village of Cue, Ballota beach, the golf course, the cliffs at Puertas de Vidiago, the La Boriza viewpoint, the cliffs at Buelna, La Borbolla, Purón and Pancar.

To the west of Llanes: Po and the coastal path in that area; Borizu Beach; Barru Beach; the Niembru cemetery; Torimbia Beach; Cuevas del Mar Beach; the Pría blowholes; Posada; Ardisana; La Huera de Meré, El Mazucu and La Pereda.

Without a doubt, a series of dreamlike places!

One of the possibilities offered by the unique topography of the Llanes region and its location within the Principality of Asturias is that you can come across beautiful viewpoints overlooking both the sea and the mountains, with splendid views of the coast and the inland countryside at the same time.

One of those places with a special charm thanks to the panoramic view it offers is the San Pedro promenade and viewpoint, which, situated on a natural promontory, rises majestically above the town of Llanes, offering a detailed view of the town itself, as well as the harbour, Sablón beach, the coastline to the east and west, and the Sierra del Cuera.

A place of tranquillity and leisure that attracts thousands of people and notable figures, including Leonor of Austria – sister of Emperor Charles V – and which today forms part of the coastal path that runs through the municipality of Llanes.

Another of these spots offering wonderful views is the La Boriza viewpoint, which overlooks the beaches of Andrín and Ballota, and its famous hill fort. Also on the coast, don’t miss the Alto de Torimbia, with spectacular views of this beach and the surrounding coastal and mountainous landscape.

For its part, the village of Los Carriles, in the interior of the municipality, boasts a wonderful viewpoint overlooking the Picos de Europa, with splendid views of the legendary Picu Urriellu, also known as Naranjo de Bulnes.

Llanes offers a whole world of trails, paths and routes. One of the best known is the coastal path, a walking and cycling route that runs close to the coast for 65 kilometres, with very little elevation gain, connecting the village of Bustio with Guadamía beach. It’s certainly a great way to explore the entire Llanes coastline.

But there are also many other routes and trails where you can enjoy these incredible landscapes: the Camín Encantáu, the Colours of the Oscuru Valley Trail, the Purón River Trail, the Invisible Valley Trail, the La Cuesta Trail, the Mañanga Trail and the Alto de la Tornería Trail to the peak of Los Resquilones.

And, of course, Europe’s most notable cultural route, the Way of St James, passes through the municipality of Llanes – specifically the Northern Route, or Coastal Route – bringing a constant stream of pilgrims who lend an air of cosmopolitanism and even exoticism to the atmosphere of the municipality.

Furthermore, this route features some key landmarks in the municipality of Llanes, such as the monastery of San Antolín de Bedón.

The harbour of Niembru, also known as El Vau cove, is situated at the mouth of the estuary of the same name, near Cabo Prieto. This estuary mouth forms a cove with very calm waters and is exposed at low tide.

On its shore stands thechurch of Nuestra Señora de los Dolores with its adjoining cemetery, creating a unique scene which, depending on the time of day and the light, exerts an aesthetic fascination. It is therefore no coincidence that it is one of those settings that has captivated artists of all kinds, including filmmakers.

At high tide, this fine-sand estuary beach is very popular for swimming and all kinds of sports, especially paddleboarding.

You may also come across pilgrims walking the Northern Way or the Coastal Way, sometimes having travelled from far-flung lands, who, like you, are struck by the beauty of the landscape, set against the backdrop of the lovely village of Niembru.

The coast of Llanes, with its beaches and coves, its cliffs, its hill forts, its caves, its cenotes and that spectacular terrain so characteristic of the karst system, is an ideal setting for water sports.

You can do almost anything you can imagine in the waters off the Llanes coast: diving, snorkelling, sea kayaking, sailing or motorboating, fishing, or birdwatching and spotting marine life, amongst other possibilities.

What’s more, for the past few decades, the Llanes coastline has been a mecca for stand-up paddleboarding in northern Spain, whether for cross-country or wave riding, and even for a less common discipline such as paddle yoga.

Thanks to its topography, this coastline – some of whose beaches and coves, such as El Vau between Niembru and Barru, are sheltered from the open-sea swell – is ideal for beginners to the sport, as well as for enjoying wonderful paddle tours whilst taking in the immense beauty of this coastline, which is unique in the world.

Just 4 kilometres from the town of Llanes, in a charming hamlet called Porrúa, lies the Ethnographic Museum of Eastern Asturias. Run by the El Llacín Cultural Association, this museum is a space dedicated to the ethnographic heritage and traditions of this area.

The land and buildings on which the museum stands were donated by a family of Indian origin from Porrúa. You’ll be struck by the fact that it is a dynamic cultural centre, entirely devoted to exhibiting and promoting items of historical and ethnographic interest, and which also has a research department. Tours of the local area are also organised.

The museum buildings are situated on an estate that has been converted into a public park, featuring a wide variety of fruit and woodland trees. Among the trees , the monumental avocado tree—brought from Mexico and planted in 1906—stands out , with a trunk circumference of over 7 metres.

The houses that make up the museum are arranged in two parallel rows connected by a cantilevered wooden walkway. Inside, visitors can explore the rooms of a traditional farmhouse: the entrance hall or ‘estregal’, the kitchen, the living room, the bedroom, the stable and the cider press, and a series of themed exhibitions dedicated to cheese and lard production, the handmade manufacture of roof tiles and bricks, textile processes, traditional folk costume, a carpenter’s workshop, wood-cutting tools, washboards, farm implements, as well as a collection of enamelled metal pieces.

Llanes is the municipality in Asturias with the longest coastline – 56 kilometres – along which you’ll find a succession of wonders. Stunning cliffs, caves, arches, bridges, geyser-like springs, sinkholes, castros (islets) and, of course, beaches – two of which are inland, the only ones of their kind in northern Spain.

And along this coast of wonders, you’ll find a premium selection of beaches – most of them small – some with sand that appears and disappears, so you’ll need to time your visit to coincide with low tide, or else enjoy the stunning natural pools that form at high tide. That said, all of them are characterised by a striking two-tone palette of green grass and blue sea.

Furthermore, the coast of Llanes still retains a certain unspoilt natural beauty, as some sandy beaches and coves can only be reached on foot, often through idyllic landscapes.

There’s no doubt that, of all the beaches in Llanes, there are two that particularly catch the eye because they’re inland, and you come across them in the middle of a meadow, like some sort of marine miracle. The karst system facilitates this filtration through the porous rocks, which are riddled with thousands of cavities, and this is how this salty miracle comes about, also influenced by the tides. So, when you go to see Gulpiyuri or Cobijeru – as the two inland beaches are called – you may find them with varying amounts of salt water.

On this journey through such beauty, there are two moments you simply must experience if you can:

One such sight is the ‘bufones’ – seawater jets that gush through the cavities in the eroded coastal rock at high tide, whilst emitting a roar or characteristic sound from which they take their name. The ‘bufones’ at Pría, Arenillas and Santiuste are particularly well known.

The other is to admire the Sierra del Cuera and the peaks of the Picos de Europa during a day’s sailing along the coast.

Of course, you’ll soon realise that the wonders of the Llanes coastline aren’t just natural – they’re cultural too: you’re very likely to come across monasteries right by the beach, such as San Salvador de Celorio; to see pilgrims passing by on the Coastal Way whilst you’re on the beach; to stumble upon chapels or ruins overlooking the sea from truly privileged spots; or, suddenly, whilst strolling along the coast, you’ll discover the ruins of a tidal mill like the one near Cobijeru beach, in Buelna.

The municipality of Llanes offers a wealth of experiences and incredible places to explore!