The Coastal Way of St. James in Asturias: A unique journey

Soon it was the most used by those pilgrims who began their journey by sea, embarking in any of the ports of northern Europe to end up flowing into the Cantabrian coast.

The Northern Way, also known as the Way of Saint James of the Coast, would come to be the extension of the so-called "Soulac Way", which runs through the westernmost lands of France, once it enters the Iberian Peninsula. If the Primitive Way constituted the first route of pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela and laid out the itinerary to be followed by those who set out from the capital of the Kingdom of Asturias on their way to the tomb of the apostle, the Coastal Way gradually defined the route for those who came from beyond the old royal seat and sought less arduous ways to reach Compostela.

It should be noted that, although around the 11th and 12th centuries the various monarchs began to promote the French Route, the primitive route and the Coastal Route maintained a considerable boom due to their status as safe itineraries, as they passed through clearly Christianised territories, as opposed to the other route, which was still exposed to possible Muslim incursions and therefore entailed greater risk.

There is evidence that during the 13th century the Camino de Santiago de la Costa was still at its peak thanks to the pilgrims who opted for this route when they reached the pass of Irún and those who disembarked at the ports of Bermeo or Bilbao.

Nowadays, the route is a kind of nemesis of the French Way: if the latter crosses large mountainous areas to then develop through the arid plateau, the former crosses the border strip to run parallel to the Cantabrian Sea, giving a panoramic view of the historical, economic and social circumstances that have governed the evolution of the north of the peninsula.

The Coastal Route starts in Irún and arrives in Santiago after crossing the entire north of the peninsula. It enters Asturias via the Tina Mayor estuary and leaves the autonomous community via the Eo estuary, covering more than 280 kilometres and twenty-one councils along the way. Along the way, rural and seafaring Asturias is combined with an urban Asturias, whose domains are heavily industrialised, thus drawing a profile as complete as it is idiosyncratic of a land that has many more faces than those usually reflected in tourist postcards.

The official itinerary, which consists of thirteen stages as it passes through the autonomous community, can be extended or contracted as much as the pilgrims want, since the area has enough hostels and tourist establishments so that everyone can adapt their steps to the demands of the Camino.

The Coastal Pilgrims' Route to Santiago de Compostela follows an eminently rural and seafaring route, passing through towns and villages where the smell of saltpetre can be felt in the streets, and through inland corners that have managed to maintain their loyalty to the old trades.

Between them, the magnificent beaches stand out, which in many cases, such as those of the San Antolín sandy area or the beautiful Concha de Artedo, are true dream spots where you can stop to rest and recharge your batteries before continuing your journey.

Among the many natural attractions, the torrential spectacle of the bufones (vertical orifices that on days of high tide expel jets of pulverised sea spray) and the silent tranquillity of Cabo Busto stand out. But both corners are interrupted and underlined halfway along the route by another Asturias, the one that occupies the central stretch of the territory, where the passage (and the weight) of industrialisation and the resulting migratory flows from the countryside, the mountains and the ports to the big cities can be clearly seen.

This was an area inhabited since ancient times, as is shown by the Jurassic Museum, located in the outskirts of Colunga, and the construction efforts of the Asturian monarchs reached it, leaving as their legacy the surprising pre-Romanesque church of San Salvador, in Priesca. In Villaviciosa, the Romanesque church of Santa María de la Oliva stands out for its lightness, but we should also pay attention to the house where Charles V spent the night, in what was his first night on the Iberian Peninsula, when he came to take possession of the throne. Very close by, in Amandi, another Romanesque church, that of San Juan, will surprise those who look inside for the originality of its apse of semicircular arches supported by double-decker columns.

Similarly, between Gijón/Xixón and Avilés, it is worth taking a leisurely stroll through the tomb necropolis of Mount Areo. It goes without saying that both cities call for a leisurely stroll through their streets. The silhouette of the Universidad Laboral, designed by the architect Luis Moya during the Franco regime, is still the largest building in Spain today.

The crossing of the River Nalón, at Sotu, marks the incursion into the western fringe, which will become evident when passing through Muros. The west of Asturias is rich in seafaring enclaves, and although the Coastal Route does not pass through Cudillero, it does pass through the surrounding area, where it is possible to admire buildings such as the sumptuous Selgas estate (El Pito) before being taken to Soto de Luiña, with its elegant Baroque church of Santa María.

In Cadavéu, the house where Father Galo lived and wrote is preserved, which is the birthplace of modern Asturian literature, and Luarca/Ḷḷuarca is one of the most enjoyable visits on this stretch of the route, especially for its superb marine cemetery which offers unequalled views over the town itself and the Bay of Biscay. Navia also has literary resonances: the poet Ramón de Campoamor, so widely read in the 19th century, was born here. The Way leaves Asturias through the town of Abres, once past A Veiga, to enter the lands of Galicia.