Asturian cider: unique tradition, culture and flavour

As it’s poured, we witness a mesmerising dance. And when the stream hits the glass, the cider comes to life and there’s no turning back. We then drink it without a second thought… it’s light and sparkling, sparking conversation, good humour and laughter. From this point on, we measure time in empty bottles. The ‘culetes’ or ‘culinos’ come round to us time and time again; our appetite is whetted and it’s impossible not to order‘a few tapas’.

Visiting Asturias and enjoying its cider houses in good company is a unique way to savour life. We’re not exaggerating – that’s just what cider is like; it’s in its very DNA. Its roots run so deep and its legacy is so significant that, in 2024, Asturian Cider Culture received a globally significant recognition: it was designated Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.

The history of cider is the story of an ancient drink that has been part of Asturian life from the very beginning. The geographer Strabo mentions its consumption by the Astures in the first century BC. The Romans adopted and spread this fine tradition, and during the Middle Ages it became even more firmly established thanks to the existence of communal cider mills (cellars where cider is made), run by monks and farming communities.

Towards the end of the 19th century, population growth and the early stages of industrialisation drove the expansion of crop cultivation, and cider became an affordable alternative to wine. It ceased to be a drink exclusively for the peasantry; demand for it grew in urban centres and it began to be consumed in ‘chigres’ – a term used in Asturias interchangeably to refer to taverns, inns, pubs or bars, and which takes its name from a huge corkscrew; an old contraption used to open bottles more quickly.

The ‘chigres’ were places designed for the working classes to use and enjoy (and still are), and played a prominent role in raising awareness of the labour movement in Asturias. In towns such as Mieres del Camín, for example, where the mining industry required a large working class, a high consumption of cider became firmly established. The emerging bourgeoisie, linked to mining and industry, also embraced cider as part of their regional identity, promoting its sale both within and outside Asturias.

Asturias currently produces 80 per cent of Spain’s cider, with over 40 million bottles a year. The history of cider is therefore more alive than ever in increasingly productive pomaradas (or pumaradas). In the 21st century, moreover, the status of cider is more firmly established than ever thanks to the ‘Sidra de Asturias’ Protected Designation of Origin (recognised as such in 2003 by the European Union) and the more recent declaration by UNESCO of cider-making culture as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity (in 2024).

The production of Asturian cider follows a strict cycle linked to nature and the seasons. It all begins between October and November, when the fruit ripens and the pickers walk through the apple orchards, patiently gathering the best apples.

Cider is not made from just one type of apple. Asturias is home to almost 500 varieties of this fruit, 76 of which are recognised under the ‘Sidra de Asturias’ Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). Each of these varieties has its own unique character and plays a specific role in the alchemy of the cider house, lending the cider vigour, a sharp freshness and a firm bite.

Based on their flavour and function in cider-making, apples can be divided into three main groups: acidic, sweet and bitter or tannic. The first group provides freshness and acidity (the most prized varieties being Raxao, Xuanina, Perico, etc.); the sweet varieties provide the basic sugar for fermentation (De la Riega, Verdialona, Ernestina, etc.); the third group lends body and structure to the cider with its characteristic bitterness and higher tannin content (Regona, Blanquina, Limón Montés, etc.).

Each cider mill combines different proportions of these groups to produce a cider with just the right balance, whilst always adhering to the techniques and knowledge that have been passed down (and refined) from generation to generation. That is why the aftertaste of Asturian cider lingers on the palate in such a unique way, and why it is also virtually impossible to produce outside the meadows and cider houses of the Principality.

Natural cider begins its journey within the cider-making facilities. This is where the baskets, crates or sacks overflowing with apples are first gathered. Next comes the‘crushing’, the process of breaking the apples down into smaller pieces to prepare them for pressing. In the past (and still today in many homes), the apples were crushed by beating the harvest with large wooden mallets. This was a task that required the combined effort and strength of several workers. Nowadays, mechanical mills are used for this purpose. Likewise, the wooden beams of the old presses have gradually given way to modern hydraulic presses that extract every last drop and set aside the unproductive“magaya”(the compacted, dried-out residue from the apples).

From this point onwards, the must is stored in large chestnut, oak or steel vats. Fermentation is a journey of no return that lasts at least three months; the yeasts awaken in the cask, patiently consuming the sugars, transforming them into alcohol, into aromas, into cider that first bubbles with an almost audible frenzy, releasing bubbles of carbon dioxide. Then it settles and gradually clears.

The time for maturation arrives: the cider needs tranquillity, balance, and a leisurely wait. It is racked repeatedly to remove impurities and aerate it. The experienced cider maker tracks the progress of this maturation through the aromas released and by tasting the flavour, until one day, without anyone being able to pinpoint the exact moment, the cider is ready.

Once bottled, cider is not served like any other drink; it is flung into the air from just the right height, with an outstretched arm and a steady gaze, without hesitation and with no margin for error, so that it crashes right against the rim of the glass with a fleeting effervescence, awakening and coming to life. This traditional way of serving natural cider originated in Asturias sometime during the 19th century and involves a ceremonial presentation, a skill and dexterity that is continually put to the test in regional cider-pouring championships.

The‘behaviour in the glass’ of cider includes specific concepts such as‘pegue’,‘espalme’ or‘aguante’, relating to sensory aspects such as the instability of the foam, its adherence to the glass or the speed at which the carbon dioxide is released after pouring. If these aspects are handled well, not only does the cider become infused with oxygen and freshness, but the cider-drinking atmosphere is greatly enhanced.

But pouring cider goes beyond a mere technical gesture; it is a social act, a collective ritual that breaks down barriers and brings people together. In every cider house, in every cider mill, at every‘prau’ festival, the pouring of cider always gives meaning to the gathering. Traditionally, a single glass symbolised the unity of the group, passing from hand to hand in a gesture of trust and community. Today, although everyone has their own glass, the essence remains: drinking cider is a collective act in which one must wait one’s turn to enjoy it all the more.

You never pour for yourself first; you pour for others. Each participant in the ritual drinks exactly the same amount each time: a couple of fingers’ width, ‘un culete’ or‘culín’. There’s no rush: we drink, chat, laugh, and the pourer takes the lead time and again to pick up where we left off. When we pour part of this‘culín’ onto the floor, it’s not a waste; we’re simply clearing the glass of impurities and paying homage to the age-old tradition of drinking cider.

There is a wide range of cider-related vocabulary that you need to know if you want to fully immerse yourself in the cider scene. We strongly recommend that you never say ‘sidriña’, and that if you find yourself ordering at the bar of a cider house, you say it like this: ‘give me a small bottle’.

They can be found throughout the Principality as temples to a living tradition, iconic venues where cider culture finds its fullest expression. Cider takes centre stage here; it is the common thread running through all conversations and fosters that quintessentially Asturian sense of community.

The cider houses are staffed by skilled professionals who, as well as pouring a good glass, are able to foster a ‘cider-drinking’ rapport with their customers. These are venues that tend to have a great atmosphere, in the tradition of those authentic ‘chigres’ – places of relaxed (and sometimes cheeky) conversation – where some would break into song (‘cancios de chigre’) accompanied by a bagpipe.

Any cider house worth its salt will also offer a selection of different‘styles’ of cider – those which, in its opinion, have the best organoleptic properties, or those most representative of its favourite cider mills. And, of course, there must be good food in the form of tapas and traditional dishes, particularly those that pair best with natural Asturian cider.

Since 2017, there has been the exclusive‘Sidrerías de Asturias, Calidad Natural’ quality mark, awarded by the Principality’s administration to those establishments which, in addition to their connection with natural cider, meet certain quality standards and undergo regular assessment. Check out the cider houses that are part of this quality label.

Some cider mills, whether in their traditional premises or in adjoining buildings, often also serve as restaurants or cider houses in their own right. They organise guided tours and cider tastings accompanied by local specialities (potato omelettes, chorizo cooked in cider, lacón, tortos, etc.). Ethnographic and gastronomic trails are also organised in the vicinity of these cider mills, such as the popular ‘Ruta’l Quesu y la Sidra’ in Asiegu (Cabrales). However, the most characteristic feature of these venues is the so-called ‘espichas’ – festive gatherings where cider is drunk straight from the barrels, accompanied by Asturian tapas and music.

If cider tourism is your thing, you should know that the areas most popular with cider enthusiasts are the outskirts of Gijón/Xixón and Oviedo/Uviéu, and the municipalities of Villaviciosa and Nava; and also the municipality of Siero, mainly in the Tiñana area.

Cider never comes on its own; it’s accompanied by dishes that pay tribute to the Asturian countryside: corn tortos with minced meat and fried eggs, tasty platters of Asturian cheeses, chorizo sausages cooked in the cider itself, a generous portion of oricios (sea urchins), a 100% Asturian cachopo, and so on.

Cider cleanses the palate and brings out the character of iconic dishes such as fabada; it enhances the creaminess of Cabrales cheese and adds a refreshing touch to fish and seafood.

But as well as being a great accompaniment, cider can also be used as an ingredient in cooking, adding a touch of acidity and fruitiness. There are now classic recipes that have always used it. Chorizo in cider, for example; or hake in cider, clams in cider, and so on. A good glass of cider goes well with many different dishes: ‘chipirones afogaos’ (baby squid in cider), creamy rice, a hearty stew with Asturian beef, cod, ‘chopa’ (a type of flatfish), or a dressing for oysters… The possibilities are constantly expanding, especially now that cider, with its new varieties and styles, is achieving unprecedented versatility in the culinary world.

Although traditional still cider remains the undisputed queen of the table, sparkling natural cider has also achieved significant market share; it tends to have a slightly higher alcohol content and is commonly enjoyed at celebrations. There is also table cider, or ‘nueva expresión’, which is filtered to remove sediment. It does not need to be decanted; it is designed to be enjoyed in any type of glass or tumbler, and pairs perfectly with fish and seafood from the Cantabrian Sea. Another option is ice cider, which is produced by concentrating the must through freezing and is best enjoyed in small quantities; it is ideal as an accompaniment to cheeses and desserts.

We mustn’t forget sweet cider – or unfermented cider – which is only available seasonally (for just a few weeks between October and November). It is drunk whilst we eat Asturian chestnuts at the famous‘amagüestos’ – autumnal celebrations that can be enjoyed in every corner of the Principality.

Sidraturismo Asturias is a product club that brings together businesses and resources involved in tourism activities linked to Asturian cider and its culture.

It offers a way to explore this world from different perspectives: visiting cider mills and apple orchards, learning how cider is made, enjoying culinary experiences, discovering local crafts and traditions, or staying in accommodation linked to cider culture.

A way to discover Asturias through one of its most iconic products, bringing together cider, the region, tradition and experiences.

Cider forms part of Asturian identity and culture, and this is reflected in Asturias through the celebration, throughout the year, of numerous festivals, fairs, competitions and events related to cider and apples.

This calendar lists some of the main cider-related events taking place in various parts of Asturias.

Asturian cider is more than just a drink or a mark of quality; it is a whole way of looking at life that the people of Asturias have successfully exported and which has been widely recognised and highly acclaimed.

Since 2003, natural cider has held the Protected Designation of Origin ‘Sidra de Asturias’. Since then, the Regulatory Council has overseen and guaranteed that the apples used in production are from Asturias and that all the required quality controls are carried out. Cider with PDO status is sold in bottles bearing the producer’s label alongside the Regulatory Council’s back label, as well as a numbered seal of guarantee.

Not all cider produced in Asturias is protected by this designation. For this to be the case, three elements must be met: origin, production process and quality. Between 35 and 40 million bottles of traditional natural cider are produced annually in Asturias, of which almost 4.5 million bottles are produced under the Sidra de Asturias PDO. As for other types of cider, production exceeds 15 million bottles.

Asturian cider has been recognised on several occasions at prestigious international cider competitions, such as the Great Lakes International Cider and Perry Competition (GLINTCAP) in the United States, and the International Cider Challenge in the United Kingdom.

Asturias is also part of the European Network of Cider Cities, an initiative by cider-producing regions to promote and raise awareness of their products.

In 2024, Asturian Cider Culture was designated as Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO. This UNESCO recognition highlights a millennia-old tradition that has endured and evolved over time, becoming deeply rooted in Asturias to an extent unrivalled by other cider-producing regions. No other place has preserved cider culture quite like this region, where its consumption transcends everyday life to become a cultural symbol, present in folklore, literature, art, architecture and gastronomy.

This UNESCO recognition enables the rest of the world to discover and share a passion and a spirit of fun and sociability that only cider seems to foster. Come to Asturias and experience cider tourism to discover it for yourself.