Asturian cider: unique tradition, culture and flavour

When it is poured, we witness a choreography that hypnotises us. And when the spurt breaks against the glass, the cider awakens and there is no turning back. We then drink it without any remedy... it is light and sparkling, it spreads the conversation, the good humour and the laughter. From this point on, we measure the time in empty bottles. The"culetes" or"culinos" come back to us again and again, our appetite is whetted and it is impossible not to ask for"unes tapines".

Visiting Asturias and enjoying its cider houses in good company is a unique way of enjoying life. We are not exaggerating, cider is like that, it has it in its genes. So deeply rooted is it and so important is its legacy that in 2024 Asturian Cider Culture obtained a recognition of worldwide relevance: Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.

The history of cider is the chronicle of an age-old drink that has accompanied the lives of Asturians from the very beginning. The geographer Strabo mentions its consumption by the Asturians in the first century BC. The Romans took part and expanded this good custom, and during the Middle Ages it was further consolidated thanks to the existence of community 'llagares' (cider cellars), run by monks and peasant communities.

At the end of the 19th century, population growth and incipient industrialisation boosted the expansion of crops and cider became an economic alternative to wine. It ceased to be an exclusively peasant drink and began to be in demand in urban centres and to be consumed in the chigres - a term that in Asturias is used interchangeably to refer to taverns, inns, taverns or bars and which takes its name from an enormous corkscrew; an old contraption used to open bottles more quickly.

The cider houses were places designed for the use and enjoyment of the working classes (they still are) and had a prominent place in the awareness of the workers' movement in Asturias. In towns such as Mieres del Camín, for example, where mining required a large working class, cider consumption was high. The emerging bourgeoisie, linked to mining and industry, also adopted cider as part of their regional identity, promoting its commercialisation both inside and outside Asturias.

Today Asturias produces 80% of Spain's cider, with more than 40 million bottles a year. The history of cider is therefore more alive than ever in increasingly productive pomaradas (or pumaradas). In this 21st century, moreover, the consolidation of cider is stronger than ever thanks to the Protected Designation of Origin "Sidra de Asturias" (recognised as such in 2003 by the European Union) and with the most recent declaration of cider culture as Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO (year 2024).

Making Asturian cider follows a strict cycle linked to nature and the seasons. It all begins between October and November, when the fruit ripens and the harvesters go through the orchards patiently picking the best apples.

Cider is not made from just one type of apple. Asturias has almost 500 varieties of this fruit, of which 76 are recognised within the Protected Designation of Origin (P.D.O.) "Sidra de Asturias". Each of these varieties has a unique nature and plays a specific role in the alchemy of cider making, giving the cider vigour, a sharp freshness and a firm nerve.

According to their flavour and cider-making function, three main groups of apples can be defined: sour, sweet and bitter or tannic. The first group provides freshness and acidity (the most popular are Raxao, Xuanina, Perico, etc.); the sweet apples provide the basic sugar for fermentation (De la Riega, Verdialona, Ernestina, etc.); the third group gives body and structure to the cider with its characteristic bitterness and greater quantity of tannins (Regona, Blanquina, Limón Montés, etc.).

Each cider maker combines different proportions of these groups to obtain a cider with the right balance, following at all times the techniques and knowledge that have been passed down (and improved) from generation to generation. This is why the aftertaste of Asturian cider lingers in the mouth in a unique way, and why it is also practically impossible to make outside the meadows and cider mills of the Principality.

The natural cider begins its journey inside the cider-making facilities. In this space, first the baskets, boxes or sacks full of apples are accumulated. Then comes the"mayanza", the action of crushing them, breaking up the pulp into smaller pieces to make way for pressing. In the old days (and still today in many houses) the harvest was crushed by beating it with large wooden mallets. A job that required the help and skill of several mayadores. Nowadays there are mechanical mills for this purpose. The wooden beams of the old presses have also given way to modern hydraulic presses that extract every last drop and leave aside the unproductive"magaya" (the dried, caked residue of the apples).

The must is then stored in large chestnut, oak or steel casks. Fermentation is a journey of no return that lasts at least three months; the yeasts awaken in the barrel, patiently devour the sugars, convert them into alcohol, into aromas, into cider that first bubbles with an almost audible frenzy, releasing bubbles of carbon dioxide gas. Then it calms down, gradually clearing up.

The time comes for maturation: the cider needs calm, balance, an unhurried wait. The cider is racked one after the other to clean it of impurities and aerate it. The experienced cider maker dates the progress of this maturation process by means of the aromas released and by tasting the flavour, until one day, without anyone being able to tell the exact time, the cider is ready.

Once bottled, the cider is not served like any other drink, it is thrown into the air from just the right height, with an outstretched arm and a steady gaze, without hesitation, with no margin for error, so that it breaks right against the rim of the glass with a fleeting effervescence, awakening and filling with life. This traditional way of pouring natural cider emerged in Asturias sometime in the 19th century and involves a ceremonious staging, a dexterity and skill that is continually put to the test in regional 'escanciadores' championships.

The 'glass behaviour' of cider includes concepts such as'pegue','espalme' and'aguante', which relate to sensory issues such as the instability of the foam, its adherence to the glass and the speed with which the carbon dioxide gas is released after pouring. If these issues are well resolved, not only will the cider be full of oxygen and freshness, but the cider atmosphere will also be enhanced.

But the pouring of cider goes beyond the mere technical gesture; it is a social act, a collective ritual that breaks down barriers and brings people together. In every cider house, in every cider mill, in every"prau" party, the pouring of cider always gives meaning to the meeting. Traditionally, a single glass represented the unity of the group, passed from hand to hand, in a gesture of trust and community. Today, although everyone has their own glass, the essence persists: drinking cider is a collective act in which you have to wait your turn to enjoy it better.

It is never poured starting with oneself; it is poured for others. Each participant in the ritual drinks the same amount at a time: a couple of fingers,"un culete" or"culín". There is no rush: we drink, we comment, we laugh, and the pourer takes the initiative again and again to continue where we left off. When we throw part of this"culín" on the floor, it is not a waste, we are just cleaning the glass of impurities and paying homage to this ancestral practice of cider drinking.

There is a wide range of cider vocabulary that you need to know if you want to fully integrate into the cider environment. We strongly recommend that you never say"sidriña", and that if you have to order at the bar of a cider bar you say"ponme una botellina".

We can find them all over the Principality as temples of a living tradition, emblematic spaces where cider culture finds its maximum expression. Cider plays a leading role here, it is the common thread of all conversations and favours Asturian-style sociability.

The cider houses have good professionals who, as well as pouring cider well, are capable of maintaining a"cidery" complicity with their customers. They tend to have a good atmosphere, in the wake of those genuine "chigres" (cider bars), with lively (sometimes cheeky) gatherings, where some people would burst into song ("cancios de chigre") accompanied by a bagpipe.

A self-respecting cider house will also offer for sale different "palos" of cider, those which in their opinion have the best organoleptic properties, or those most representative of their favourite cider houses. And good food in the form of tapas and typical dishes cannot be missing, especially those that allow a better pairing with natural Asturian cider.

Since 2017 there is the exclusive brand"Asturias Cider Bars, Natural Quality" awarded by the Principality's Administration to those establishments that, in addition to their link with natural cider, meet certain quality conditions and undergo periodic evaluation. Consult the cider makers that form part of this quality mark.

Some cider presses, either in their traditional facilities or in adjoining buildings, often also serve as eating houses or cider houses. They organise guided tours and cider tastings accompanied by typical products (potato omelettes, chorizos a la cidra, lacón, tortos, etc.). Ethnographic and gastronomic routes are also planned around these cider mills, as is the case with the popular Ruta'l Quesu y la Sidra (Cheese and Cider Route) in Asiegu (Cabrales). Although what is most typical of these areas are the so-called "espichas", festive gatherings where cider is drunk directly from the barrels, accompanied by Asturian tapas and music.

If cider tourism is your thing, you should know that the areas most frequented by cider lovers are the outskirts of Gijón/Xixón and Oviedo/Uviéu, the councils of Villaviciosa and Nava, and also Siero, mainly in the area of Tiñana.

Cider never arrives alone, it is accompanied by dishes that are a tribute to the Asturian land: corn cakes with minced meat and fried eggs, tasty Asturian cheese boards, chorizo cooked in its own cider, a good portion of sea urchins, a 100% Asturian cachopo, etc.

Cider cleanses the palate and enhances the character of iconic dishes such as fabada (bean stew); it enhances the unctuousness of Cabrales or accompanies fish and seafood with freshness.

But in addition to pairing, cider can also act as another ingredient in the kitchen, adding its acidic and fruity touch. There are classic recipes that have always used it. Chorizo in cider, for example; or hake in cider, clams in cider, etc. A good glass of cider can be served with many different dishes: baby squid in cider, sweet rice, a good stew with Asturian veal, cod, mussels, oysters... The possibilities are constantly expanding, especially now that cider, with its new variants and expressions, is acquiring an unprecedented versatility in the culinary field.

Although the undisputed queen of the table is still the traditional natural cider, natural sparkling cider has also reached great heights in the market, whose alcohol content is usually slightly higher and is common in celebrations. There is also table cider or a new expression filtered to remove sediment. It does not need to be poured, it is designed to be consumed in any type of glass or glass, and is perfect with fish and seafood from the Bay of Biscay. Another possibility: ice cider, which is obtained by concentrating the must by freezing and is enjoyed in small quantities; ideal for accompanying cheeses and desserts.

We must not forget the sweet cider, or unfermented cider, whose consumption is exclusively seasonal (only for a few weeks between October and November). It is drunk at the same time as we eat Asturian chestnuts in the famous"amagüestos" - autumn celebrations that can be enjoyed in any corner of the Principality.

Cider is part of Asturian identity and culture and is experienced in Asturias with the celebration, throughout the year, of numerous festivals, festivals, competitions and events related to cider and apples.

This calendar includes some of the main cider events that take place in different parts of Asturias.

Asturian cider, more than a drink or a quality brand, is a whole way of seeing life that the Asturians have successfully exported and which has been widely recognised and rewarded.

Since 2003, natural cider has had the Protected Designation of Origin "Sidra de Asturias". Since then, the Regulatory Council has been supervising and guaranteeing that the apples used to make the cider are Asturian, and that all the required quality controls are carried out. The cider under PDO is marketed in bottles identified with the label of the producer company together with the back label of the Regulatory Council; in addition to a numbered guarantee seal.

Not all cider produced in Asturias is protected by this designation. Three elements must coincide: the origin, the production process and the quality. Every year in Asturias between 35 and 40 million bottles of traditional natural cider are produced, and of these almost 4.5 million bottles correspond to the production of DOP Sidra de Asturias. In the case of other ciders, production is over 15 million bottles.

Asturian cider has been recognised on several occasions in prestigious international cider competitions, such as the Great Lakes International Cider and Perry Competition (GLINTCAP) in the United States and the International Cider Challenge in the United Kingdom.

Asturias is also part of the European Network of Cider Cities, an initiative of cider producing regions to promote and disseminate cider.

In 2024 the Asturian Cider Culture was declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of UNESCO. UNESCO's recognition highlights an age-old tradition that has endured and evolved over time, reaching a level of deep-rootedness in Asturias that is unparalleled in other cider-producing regions. No other place has preserved the cider culture like this land, where its consumption transcends the everyday to become a cultural symbol, present in folklore, literature, art, architecture and gastronomy.

This UNESCO recognition means that the rest of the world knows about and shares a hobby and a spirit of fun and sociability that only cider seems to foster. Come to Asturias and discover it through cider tourism.