Discover the Vaqueira Region in Asturias: places to visit

This region in western Asturias has its soul torn between two worlds: the rough sea and the tranquil mountain pastures. Gold can still be found in its rivers, and a sense of authenticity shines through everywhere. On the rolling hills stand stone huts that preserve the memory of the vaqueiros: tenacious, nomadic shepherds who give their name to the region. We see cattle roaming freely, sit in the shade of the oak groves and then make our way down to the coast, which surprises us with rugged beaches, hidden coves and unspoilt seascapes. In the fishing villages of Luarca/Ḷḷuarca and Cudillero, the fishermen preserve traditions and expressions that further strengthen the roots of this region.

From the Merillés dolmen in the highlands of Tineo to the hamlets overlooking the sea, every corner of this region harbours a legacy deeply rooted in the land. The San Chuis hill fort, in Allande, has been inhabited since the Bronze Age: it was a Castrean stronghold, a Roman settlement and the epicentre of the gold rush that left its mark on the area with place names such as Valledor, Montefurao and Río Oro. This gold-mining tradition continues to this day in Navelgas, known as the “Valley of Gold”, which hosts the annual National Gold Panning Championship and is home to the Asturias Gold Museum – as well as having been named an Exemplary Village of Asturias in 2005.

Montefurado Viewpoint – Allande

But in the Vaqueira region, you don’t have to ‘dig deep’ to find history – it’s right there in plain sight. There are two routes that ‘trace’ its history and explain it: the Primitive Way and the Coastal Way to Santiago, both of which have been UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 2015. The Primitive Way, the oldest of them all, crosses the Vaqueira region as far as Puerto del Palo, brimming with history at every turn. Starting with the monastery of San Salvador de Cornellana (1024), a major spiritual and economic centre of its time. Further on, at the entrance to the village of Salas, the church of San Martín and its thousand-year-old yew tree await. The church’s tombstones are now preserved in the town’s Pre-Romanesque Museum, housed in the former chapel of the Palacio de Valdés Salas, the home of the influential archbishop and inquisitor who founded the University of Oviedo. The Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor, designed as the archbishop’s mausoleum, adds Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles to the town’s architectural landscape.

The Primitive Way in Montefurado – Allande

In Tinéu, the Church of San Pedro houses the Museum of Sacred Art, which boasts an outstanding collection of religious gold and silverwork, as well as medieval and Baroque carvings. Nearby, the village of Tuña (named an Exemplary Village of Asturias in 2000) preserves elegant mansions such as the Torre de Campomanes and the birthplace of General Riego, famous for his declaration in favour of the 1812 Constitution. Without leaving Tineo, the Monastery of Obona retains its noble air and its connection with the Primitive Way dating back to the time of Alfonso II the Chaste. However, it was in the 13th century that Alfonso IX made it a mandatory stop for pilgrims, thereby increasing its importance in the economic and spiritual life of the region.

In Allande, the Way of St James climbs up the Puerto del Palo, one of its most beautiful and demanding stretches. Pola de Allande boasts the Cienfuegos de Peñalba Palace, a imposing silhouette on a hill, a blend of fortress and 16th-century stately home.

The Way of St James at Puerto del Palo – Allande

But the other route – the coastal one – has also left its mark on the region. In Cudillero, the church of Santa María de Soto de Luiña is one of the most remarkable examples of Baroque architecture in Asturias. Thanks to its connection to the Way, it has been recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, just like the aforementioned monastery of Cornellana, as part of the universal legacy represented by both routes. In the municipality of Valdés, the tower of the Peláez de Villademoros family—an Asturian family descended from King Don Pelayo—stands out. It is a defensive structure, possibly used for military purposes during the Asturian monarchy.

Since the Middle Ages, the Vaqueiros de Alzada were transhumant herdsmen who moved seasonally between the valleys and the mountains. This practice – the ‘alzada’ – was not merely an economic strategy, but a self-sufficient way of life, characterised by a strong sense of community and deeply rooted in the landscape. However, because of their nomadic nature, their distinct way of speaking, and their refusal to be registered in parish records or to pay tithes, the Vaqueiros were discriminated against, excluded from churches and cemeteries, and regarded as ‘non-residents’ by the settled inhabitants known as ‘xaldos’. To counter this stigma, they bonded even more closely through music, cuisine and rituals such as the vaqueira wedding, which is still celebrated every last Sunday in July on the Aristébano mountain pasture (between Tineo and Valdés), as part of the Fiesta Vaqueira or Vaqueirada (a Festival of Tourist Interest in the Principality of Asturias), which recreates this traditional wedding celebration, enlivened by dances and folk songs, and faithfully re-enacted in traditional vaqueira attire.

San Martín de Luiña from Mumayor – Cudillero

Rural culture is also celebrated with pride in Navelgas, where, in November, the ‘Magical Night’ and the Esfoyón and Amagüestu Festival revive the traditional gatherings for husking maize, complete with songs, stories, chestnuts and frixuelos. In San Martín de Luiña, every first weekend in August, the Mercado Vaqueiro transforms the village into a festival with bagpipes, parades and excursions to the mountain pastures.

Anyone wishing to experience this culture at first hand – one of Asturias’ most valuable intangible heritage sites – can visit the Museo Vaqueiro de Asturias in Naraval (Tineo). The visit includes an 18th-century house with its granary and hayloft, and a tour of the Folgueras del Río mountain pasture, where you’ll see an old summer dwelling.

Whilst the cowboys roamed the mountain pastures and mountain passes, other, no less intense ways of life were unfolding on the coast: sailors, fishermen and emigrants forged their identity amidst fishing nets, tides and dreams of overseas lands.

Sculpture “Allande to its emigrants” – Allande

In the town of Cudillero, the ‘pixueta’ slang emerged in the Middle Ages as a way of speaking amongst fishermen who worked together: it served to help them understand one another and, above all, to ensure that others could not understand them. Its finest expression is the Festival of L’Amuravela, which dates back to the 16th century and is held annually on St Peter’s Day (29 June). Its centrepiece is a sermon in verse, recited in pixueto, which summarises the year’s events with humour and irony. Further west, in the famous fishing town of Luarca/Ḷḷuarca, at the highest point of the ‘El Cambaral’ neighbourhood, the Mesa de Mareantes y Navegantes(Seafarers’ and Navigators’ Table) still stands, where this guild has been meeting to discuss its affairs since medieval times.

Mesa de los Mareantes – Valdés

But the people of the region did not just take to the sea to fish or trade; they also did so to emigrate, particularly from the mid-19th century onwards. Many returned wealthy and built majestic houses, such as those seen in Viḷḷar de Ḷḷuarca, a neighbourhood that resembles an open-air museum and reflects the fulfilled dreams of the ‘Indianos’ in buildings such as Casa Guatemala, Villa Carmen (where Severo Ochoa was born), Villa Argentina or the impressive Villa Excelsior. Although examples of this architecture can be found throughout the region, Malleza, in Salas, stands out in particular; it is known as ‘Little Havana’ because its streets are lined with grand houses built by those who emigrated to Cuba.

Alongside the wealth brought back by the ‘Indianos’, the Selgas brothers—financiers and philanthropists who made their fortune in Spain—invested their immense wealth in creating a palace worthy of a museum: the Quinta de Selgas. Its rooms house works by Goya, Rubens and Brueghel the Younger, amidst tapestries, coffered ceilings and regal furnishings. The palace is situated in El Pito (Cudillero); it is nicknamed the ‘Asturian Versailles’ and is open to visitors in summer(opens in a new tab).

The Vaqueira region, covering an area of around 1,600 square kilometres, is a unique mosaic of Atlantic landscapes: hills, mountain pastures, valleys, native forests, rivers, cliffs and unspoilt beaches.

The Cliffs Trail at Cabo Vidio – Cudillero

For the walker with the soul of an ethnographer, the Vaqueiras Routes help to shed light on much of this region whilst walking. A variety of routes allow you to reconnect with the history of the transhumant people known as the vaqueiros. Perhaps the most popular option is the Brañas Vaqueiras Route in Cudillero, a circular route of around 24 km which starts in San Martín de Luiña and follows old cattle trails, through woods and high-altitude pastures.

The Concha de Artedo Viaduct, viewed from Brañaseca – Cudillero

In Valdés alone there are 58 registered mountain pastures, nine of which are situated in the parish of Paredes, an area centred around the River Esva, which has shaped a landscape of deep gorges such as the famous Hoces del Esva, designated a Natural Monument. An impressive canyon with walls rising up to 500 metres high and one of the finest riverside forests on the peninsula. The route winds its way through footbridges, woods and brañas, with trails of varying lengths and levels of difficulty, accessible from villages such as Bustiello, Caeras and San Pedru.

Another highly recommended route is the one that sets off from the village of Salas and follows part of the Primitive Way until it reaches the Nonaya waterfall, a very photogenic spot. The route is a straight, 8.2 km return walk, easy and perfect for families.

As well as the trails, the region is full of natural spots well worth exploring. One of these is the La Barca reservoir, between Tineo and Salas – one of the largest in western Asturias – surrounded by mountains and pine forests. Another special place is the hamlet of Valentín (Tineo), where, next to its chapel, stands the Carbayón de Valentín, an enormous, centuries-old oak tree, declared a Natural Monument. It measures over 10 metres in circumference and its crown spans 20 metres. It is believed to be over 700 years old and is mentioned in documents dating from before the discovery of the Americas.

As we descend from the highlands to the coast of the Vaqueira region, the landscape changes and the last open meadows of the coastal plain give way to steep cliffs and beaches that range from rugged to family-friendly. Cabo Busto, in the municipality of Valdés, is one of the best vantage points on the western Asturian coast. The circular route around it, which is well signposted and almost entirely flat, offers an 8-kilometre walk with uninterrupted views of the Bay of Biscay, which are particularly beautiful at sunset. Along the way, eight viewing points offer glimpses of a wild landscape: hidden beaches such as Bozo, Serrón and Barchinas, vertical cliffs, and the Busto lighthouse itself, which has been guiding sailors since 1858.

Cudillero Lighthouse – Cudillero

Cabo Vidio, in Oviñana (Cudillero), commands attention with its beauty from a height of 100 metres. Its lighthouse, which has been in operation since 1950, offers views that, on clear days, stretch from Cape Peñas to Estaca de Bares. The surrounding area, ideal for a stroll or simply taking in the scenery, features viewpoints such as El Sablón, famous for its bench overlooking the sea.

Sablón Viewpoint in Oviñana, Cabo Vidio – Cudillero

From here, a path leads to Silencio or Gavieiro beach, perhaps the most iconic on the western coast of Asturias. Sheltered by cliffs and dotted with islets, it retains an unspoilt atmosphere that lives up to its beautiful name. Other beaches in Cudillero, such as La Concha de Artedo and San Pedro de la Ribera – both Blue Flag beaches – are perfect for family outings. In contrast, spots such as Oleiros, Vallina and Gueirúa offer unspoilt, rugged landscapes, with spectacular rock formations, the remains of old sea-shell farms and a rich marine biodiversity that invites exploration at low tide.

Windmill on La Vallina beach – Cudillero

In the municipality of Valdés there are several beaches that are easily accessible and very busy in summer. Cadavedo, or Ribeirona – a shell-shaped cove – was once a whaling port. Cueva Beach, also shell-shaped and featuring dark sand and stones, is situated in a very beautiful spot, right at the mouth of the River Esva. Otur Beach is a 600-metre stretch of sand with dunes, fine sand, good beach facilities and a long tradition of surfing. Portizuelo is not a typical beach, but rather a hidden spot with striking rock formations. One of them reminds some people of Sauron’s mask from *The Lord of the Rings*. Meanwhile, in the town of Luarca/Ḷḷuarca, the Primera and Segunda beaches lie one after the other, followed by the more secluded Tercera or Salinas beach. These are urban beaches and very popular with families and day-trippers. Finally, the Barayo Partial Nature Reserve, on the border between Navia and Valdés, is much more than just a beach: it is a nature sanctuary featuring a river, the sea, woodland, dunes, migratory birds and the finest sand.

As well as its landscapes and heritage, the Vaqueira region comes alive with its festivals, is savoured at its dining tables and is best enjoyed through the warm hospitality of its people. A fine example is La Regalina (Cadavéu, Valdés), which is not only a chapel and a spectacular viewpoint overlooking the Cantabrian Sea, but also the setting for a Festival of Tourist Interest in the Principality of Asturias. It is held on the last Sunday in August, with a colourful procession to this very special spot. The seascape, the traditional costumes, the bouquets of alfiladas and the chapel itself create a vibrant scene.

La Regalina Chapel – Valdés

Saint Timothy is that cheerful, friendly saint whom Luarca/Ḷḷuarca celebrates every 22 August in one of the region’s liveliest and most well-attended pilgrimages, which has also been declared a Festival of Tourist Interest in the Principality of Asturias. The origin of this celebration is rather curious: first, the date was chosen from the calendar of saints; then the ‘prao’ (meadow) for the festival was selected; next, the chapel was built; and finally, the statue of the saint was commissioned (a bespoke saint, therefore). Dressed in their checked chambrón jackets, carrying their walking sticks and wearing the ‘T’ made of bread around their necks, the people of Timoteo turn this event into a hive of activity with bagpipes, brass bands, giants and big-headed figures, and wild singing, with walking sticks raised aloft and the unmistakable refrain of ‘San Timoteo, eo, eo’.

The catch of the first salmon in the River Narcea marks the start of the season and leads into the Campanu auction in Cornellana, a key event of the Salmon Fair, which has been declared a Festival of Tourist Interest in Asturias.

Cudillero is home to one of the most special corners of the region’s culinary scene. A village with a dramatic flair, it boasts a striking amphitheatre of colourful houses perched above the sea, gazing out towards the horizon, with the Holy Christ of the medieval Humilladero chapel watching over the place on days of gale-force winds. But here, the sea is not just admired – it is also eaten. The fish market remains open every day, and the inshore catch supplies kitchens where Cantabrian seafood and prized fish such as pincho-style hake, pixín (monkfish), sea bream and turbot take centre stage, prepared baked, grilled or in stews.

In Luarca/Ḷḷuarca, the cuisine reflects the way of life: caught between the sea and the countryside. Alongside the Asturian traditions of fabada and pote, there are local specialities such as squid caught with a jig, monkfish soup and conger eel Luarca-style. The so-called ‘White Town of the Green Coast’ cascades down from its famous Atalaya cemetery to the harbour, as if it were about to plunge into the water. In neighbourhoods such as La Pescadería or El Cambaral, you can still breathe in a medieval atmosphere. The harbour continues to supply fresh fish every day. The beaches, the promenades and the Bosque - Jardín de la Fonte Baxa, with its twenty hectares of botanical gardens by the sea, complete one of Asturias’s most famous postcard views.

Chosco with potatoes – Tineo

Tinéu is also a delight to savour. Its star product is the Chosco, a sausage with a quality label (PGI) that is highly versatile: it is eaten with verdinas, peas, trout, potatoes or simply on its own. Furthermore, its town centre, designated a Historic Site, retains its rural charm with its granaries and washing places, and boasts spots such as the Paseo de los Frailes, the Fuente de las Musas, the St James’s solar clock and the San Roque bowling alley, the heart of its festivities. On Calle Mayor, you can see coats of arms and the remains of the old pilgrims’ hospital. This town was the birthplace of figures such as Campomanes, a key figure in the Enlightenment, and Maldonado, the last president of the Second Spanish Republic in exile.

We’ve saved Salas for last – that medieval town boasting no fewer than four National Monuments – as we have already seen in the historical section – and which delights visitors with the ‘Carajitos del Profesor’, hazelnut biscuits first made in 1918 in the home of a certain Falín, a music teacher, undertaker and amateur confectioner.

It’s time for a coffee whilst we wait for an astronomy lesson. Because as well as its land, this region also shines with its night sky. Allande, Spain’s first Starlight Municipality, turns the darkness into a spectacle, with guided night-time tours led by astrophysicists and an observatory on the way.

If we want to visit this area, we should bear in mind that, from the east, it is easily accessed via the A-63 (Oviedo/Uviéu–La Espina). From there, a network of secondary roads – the AS-15 towards Cangas del Narcea, the AS-14 which skirts Allande, or the AS-219 which runs through Tineo – allows you to venture into valleys, hills and villages. The coast, meanwhile, can be explored along the N-634. As for accommodation, there are options to suit everyone: charming rural cottages, ‘casonas indianas’ (traditional Indian-style mansions), family-run hotels, pilgrims’ hostels or campsites beneath the pine trees, where you can gaze at the stars and enjoy a moment of silence longer than usual.