Cabo Peñas

The Cabo Peñas region is the spearhead that the map of Asturias thrusts into the Cantabrian Sea. The cape itself, acting as the prow and the northernmost point of the Principality, is a vast area where the landscape and geology are truly exceptional. Its rugged and fascinating coastline lays bare millennia-old marine strata, whilst concealing coves and nooks and crannies ideal for swimming and fishing. The fishing villages of Candás and Lluanco/Luanco are at the heart of a region where the sea permeates everything: the economy, festivals, cuisine and way of life. The bonito and the sardine are honoured here as they deserve.

We peer out over the final metres of Cabo Peñas (Peñes), in the municipality of Gozón, as if gazing at the end of the Earth. This Asturian ‘Finisterre’ is one of the most breathtaking spots on the Cantabrian coast. There is no spot further north in the entire region, nor one with such sheer vertical drops, with a free fall of almost one hundred metres from the tip of the rock known as Gaviera down to the foaming sea – which is why it’s best not to be reckless when taking photos. Resistant to millennia of erosion and folding, this heroic bastion contains rocks from the Palaeozoic and Mesozoic eras, and even fossil traces from different geological periods. A headland that defies the logic of the map and, on clear days, offers a view of half the Asturian coastline: to the west, Cape Vidio and – if the weather is on your side – as far as Cape Busto, over in Luarca/Ḷḷuarca. The same is true to the east: as well as Punta del Castro, Punta Narvata, El Paguión and Punta la Vaca, the view may even extend as far as Punta Tazones, in distant Villaviciosa.

Sunset at Cabo Peñes – La Erbosa Island – Gozón

But it is not all peaceful contemplation; Atlantic storms often unleash their fury here, seagulls battle against the wind, and we humans feel tiny. A force of nature that the Peñas Lighthouse has faced since 1852. Just 60 metres from the cliff, its beam cuts through 41 miles of darkness or 18 miles of fog, seeking to warn sailors of the presence – sometimes invisible – of this out-of-place mass.

This area, covering some 19 km² between Xagó beach and the Candás cove, was designated a Protected Landscape in 1995. It is also a Site of Community Importance (SCI) and a Special Protection Area for Birds (SPA). Up to 26 seabird species use it as a migratory corridor, including the tiny European storm petrel and the elusive shag, which find refuge in its habitat dotted with islets, such as the well-known Isla de Herbosa.

As well as its rugged beaches and cliffs, and its birds and marine wildlife, the landscape of Cabo Peñas is a stunning peninsula featuring heather, wild olive trees and unique lichens that cling to the rocks, not to mention its outstanding archaeological sites, such as those at Bañugues and its Lower Palaeolithic stone tool industry, or Castiellu de Podes, a pre-Roman hill fort built in a strategic location and perfectly adapted to the terrain.

The Senda Norte is a coastal route that runs along the central coast of Asturias and, consequently, through this Protected Landscape, between the municipalities of Gozón and Carreño. It links natural viewpoints and a myriad of coastal spots, with sections such as Verdicio–Cabo Peñas, Bañugues–Luanco and Perlora–Xivares, which together cover more than 13 kilometres. The path is flat and easy to walk along.

Avilés Lighthouse or San Juan Lighthouse — Gozón

We can visit remarkable places such as the Llumeres anticline and its mining remains (this was home to Asturias’s largest iron ore mine for several decades), or San Pedro de Antromero beach, where one of the most spectacular Carboniferous flysch formations outcrops: thin, repeated vertical layers, like the pages of an open book recounting the history of an ancient sea. On this untamed coastline, it is a real treat to visit ‘beach parks’ such as Moniello, with a leisure area, a children’s playground, a bar-restaurant and ‘time-honoured’ views.

Llumeres Mine — Gozón

For birdwatchers, a trip to the Charca de Zeluán and Ensenada de Llodero is a must, as is a visit to the La Granda Reservoir, one of the most valuable wetlands in Asturias, whose birdlife boasts over 200 recorded species.

The Coastal Way of St James also passes through this area and joins ancient Roman roads, such as the one that crosses the slope of Monte Areo. This hill, the highest in the municipality at just 265 metres, features a circular route that takes us to the dolmens of its Megalithic-Tumular Necropolis.

As for the so-called‘Clarín routes’, they take in the landscapes and villages that inspired Leopoldo Alas ‘Clarín’, one of the great novelists of the 19th century. These routes are ideal for exploring on foot or by bike, and link places that feature in works such as *Doña Berta* or *Viaje Redondo*, with medieval towers such as that of Prendes, grand colonial-style mansions, churches with Romanesque heritage, colourful granaries, and the Quinta Clarín, where the writer used to spend his summers.

There are over thirty beaches in this region, tucked away amongst the cliffs like well-kept secrets. There are beaches of golden sand, as well as those of pebbles or boulders, and some of sheer rock. In the municipality of Gozón, they form a varied and surprising mosaic: from the cosy, urban beach of Luanco, nestled between the harbour and the church, to the magnificent Xagó, one of Asturias’ natural gems, which, covering over 600,000 square metres, is home to one of the largest and best-preserved dune systems in the north. It is a very popular beach and good for surfing, as are Verdicio and Tenrero, which also feature extensive dunes, meadows and beach bars with music at sunset. Carniciega Beach joins the previous one at low tide, and this in turn joins Aguilera Beach, with the three beaches together stretching over 1,000 metres in length. Just two kilometres from Lluanco/Luanco lies Bañugues Beach, with calm waters and a vast expanse at low tide, making it perfect for a family day out.

Panoramic view of Verdicio or Tenrero Beach – Gozón

In the neighbouring municipality of Carreño, the town beach of La Palmera (“Candás beach”) has fine sand and is wide at low tide. Meanwhile, Les Huelgues, Carranques, El Tranqueru and Xivares are coves with adjacent rocky outcrops and ecosystems rich in marine biodiversity. They are set in a very natural environment, though they also feature recreational areas, beach facilities and beach bars, as they stretch alongside the Perlora promenade, a former holiday resort that once served as a summer retreat for many working-class Asturian families.

This region, which is well connected and very close to Gijón/Xixón, Avilés and Asturias Airport, is the perfect retreat for travellers seeking a proper rest. The rural surroundings are brimming with accommodation, cider houses and restaurants – amenities that are even more plentiful in the coastal towns, where, alongside their seafaring heritage, the spirit of traditional family holidays lives on.

Lluanco/Luanco and Candás are the two coastal towns of the Cabo Peñas region and, like two sides of the same coin, offer travellers hospitality and a stress-free summer holiday. Both towns – the former the capital of Gozón, the latter of Carreño – possess the rare gift of welcoming visitors with a very natural warmth: “Come in, sit down, have a go at this.” Their people make you feel at home, perhaps because they’ve been hosting summer visitors for so long. In Candás, ever since the days of Clarín and Palacio Valdés (its two most illustrious visitors), whole families from Oviedo/Uviéu or Madrid have been enjoying its beach, its historic harbour and the pleasant seafront promenade. It also boasts outstanding cultural venues such as the Prendes Theatre and the “Museo Antón” Sculpture Centre. All this takes place under the watchful eye of its iconic San Antonio lighthouse, which, perched on the edge of the cliff, continues to captivate locals and visitors alike.

San Juan de Nieva Lighthouse – Gozón

Since the mid-19th century,Lluanco/Luanco has been one of the first summer holiday destinations on the Cantabrian coast. Its beaches were praised for their beauty and therapeutic benefits. Today, the town still boasts a well-preserved historic centre: the 18th-century Clock Tower, the Church of Santa María (18th century) and the Casa Mori (a Modernist gem). Its streets and houses are striking for their authentic seaside charm, particularly around the‘Muelle Viejo’and the old town.

In Candás, the rapid growth of the canning industry from the late 19th century onwards (it came to have as many as 24 factories, with well-known brands such as Albo and Ortiz) meant that, for years, the price of fish for the whole of Asturias was set here. Today, the Permanent Exhibition on the Canning Industry in Candás, housed in the former Bernardo Alfageme factory, bears witness to that era with original artefacts. It showcases everything from traditional preservation techniques to the most modern canning methods, the evolution of the factories and working conditions.

In Lluanco/Luanco, whaling reached its peak between the 16th and 17th centuries. Up to 600 whales were hunted by the boats setting out from its harbour, following the watchman’s signal from La Mofosa. Remaining from that era are the humerus bones, shoulder blades and vertebrae of these giants at the Maritime Museum of Asturias(opens in a new tab), as well as actual ships, maps, cabins and nautical charts that recount the daily epic of those seafarers.

Cider houses and restaurants also pay daily homage to the sea: bonito, pixín (monkfish), clams marinara-style, hake casserole, sea bass, conger eel and fish stews. For dessert, casadielles, rice pudding and the inimitable marañuela. A traditional sweet from both towns, the ‘marañuelas’ resemble a sailor’s knot and were given as gifts to those setting off on coastal voyages. They contained affection, hope and the energy needed to fish on the high seas.

Marañuelas with coffee and milk – Asturias

Both towns not only preserve their roots, they also celebrate them in style. The Cristo Marinero of Candás is the focus of a major festival in mid-September. According to legend, the statue was found in the Irish Sea by local fishermen in the 16th century. Over the centuries, miracles have been attributed to it; today, its image (in the Church of San Félix) is a constant source of pilgrimage. The town of Candás also celebrates its Bagpipe Bands Festival at the end of July (declared of Tourist Interest in the Principality), and, on 1 August, its well-attended Sardine Festival (also of Regional Tourist Interest), which fills the town with the unmistakable aroma of this grilled fish and generously poured cider.

Lluanco/Luanco also has its own Christ, the Cristo del Socorro, whose feast day takes place on 5 February, when the ‘miracle’ that saved the sailors from a storm in 1776 is commemorated. In July, the Beach Tennis Tournament takes place – the only one of its kind in the world to be played on the sand at low tide. La Ribera beach is transformed into a makeshift stadium with over 2,000 spectators, and leading figures in the sport compete in the event. And whilst in Candás the sardine reigns supreme, in Lluanco/Luanco it is a member of the tuna family – the bonito – whose festival is held at the end of June. And every 14 August, the town also celebrates its Summer Carnival, a spontaneous and infectious festival that began as a celebration amongst neighbours and has become one of the most eagerly awaited events of the Asturian summer.

Panoramic view of Candás – Carreño

From Candás to Lluanco/Luanco (or the other way round), you can walk there in just over half an hour, along a coastal route that passes through areas of great natural beauty. It is a walk that invites you to take your time discovering the charms of a region that should not be rushed through, but rather explored with great care.