Church of Santiago de Gobiendes: Pre-Romanesque art by the sea

Those who approach the church of Gobiendes, in the council of Colunga, would do well to do so with the humility of a pilgrim, the interest of an archaeologist and the spirit of a hiker. Also with an attentive gaze: to the north, the coast; to the south, the majestic Sueve mountain range. On clear days, the landscape enters the temple like an old acquaintance and the etymology of this place name takes on its full meaning: "Gobiendes" ("those who are joyful"). An evocative place like few others.

Santiago de Gobiendes is one of those churches that, without boasting or pretension, faithfully summarises an era. It was built in the last years of the 9th century, when the heroic echoes of Covadonga were already becoming legendary and the Asturian monarchy was beginning its transition towards León. It was a rural work far removed from the great temples directly promoted by the court of Oviedo. But its peripheral condition did not prevent it from dominating a vast territory between the Cantabrian Sea and the slopes of the Sueve, a natural passage to the inland valleys of eastern Asturias.

The founding charter of the church has not been preserved, and its first appearance in documents dates from 921, when King Ordoño II donated it to Oviedo Cathedral. This late mention suggests that the temple already had a past, and so some experts date its construction to the time of Alfonso III, or even earlier, during the reign of Ordoño I. Although it was not a royal initiative in the strict sense of the word, but rather the efforts of the local nobility to consolidate their position in the area. Gobiendes is very similar in this respect to San Salvador de Priesca, another early medieval temple promoted by a group of nobles at the same time and in the neighbouring council of Villaviciosa. It is perhaps no coincidence that both churches share their proximity to the Coastal Way to Santiago (declared a World Heritage Site in 2015). Gobiendes, moreover, is consecrated to Santiago himself, patron saint and protector of the Christian kingdoms.

Decades earlier, Alfonso II the Chaste had completed the first pilgrimage to the (recently discovered) tomb of the apostle in Compostela. He thus inaugurated a holy goal that would begin to vertebrate the territory in a large part of Asturias. It is true that Gobiendes does not appear on the official itineraries of the Way, but it is barely one kilometre south of its route. A route that at that time was only a sum of intuitions and crossroads of paths.

As we cross the threshold of Santiago de Gobiendes and advance along its central nave -almost ten metres long-, we are enveloped by a soft, natural light that still filters through some of the alabaster closures that have survived the passage of time. The church also maintains its original basilica structure: three naves separated by brick arches, resting on imposing capitals and square pillars, a firm and functional structure. The side chapels, rectangular in plan and covered by tuff stone vaults, still retain their original character, with the remains of columns, capitals with plant decoration and other details of great refinement typical of the best Pre-Romanesque Art of Asturias. The stone of the primitive altar was soberly worked not to impress, but to stop time. Other fragments, such as capitals, shafts, bases and a mullioned window, are now in the Oviedo Church Museum.

But this temple is not only to be admired, it has to be understood. It is necessary to know part of its history to value it in its rightful terms, because in addition to a thousand years of history it has withstood several reforms (some unfortunate) that altered its physiognomy. In the 18th century, the apse was enlarged and vaulted according to the liturgical tastes of the time - more Baroque than Asturian. In 1853, neoclassicism prevailed and sacrificed the original headwall, the blind arches and the tabernacle. The belfry, the side gallery and, probably, the current portico followed soon after. In the eighties of the 20th century, the architect Magín Berenguer, with a good architectural pulse, tried to restore - as far as possible - its original appearance.

Getting to Gobiendes is easy. From Oviedo/Uviéu it takes about 50 minutes on the Autovía del Cantábrico ( towards Santander). Take exit 345 to Colunga. Then it is 5 kilometres along the AS-257, a gentle ascent to the village. The church welcomes you almost at the very edge of the road.

It can be visited, although there are no specific opening hours. It is still in use as a parish church and can therefore be entered with respect during religious ceremonies, especially on Sundays or feast days. Outside of worship, for cultural or tourist visits, it is essential to make an appointment through the Sueve Interpretation Centre, which is right next door (tel. 655 809 773).

If you like hiking, from Gobiendes you have a magnificent opportunity to do so. We can go to one of the most visited viewpoints in Asturias: the Mirador del Fitu viewpoint, just a few kilometres further up the AS-260. The Fitu is the starting point for some beautiful routes, such as those leading to the Picu Pienzu or the Biescona beech forest.

If we prefer to extend our day of cultural tourism, we can visit the Gobiendes Palace, an enormous mansion built on the site of a 15th century defensive tower. It is not open to the general public, at least not on a regular basis, but it can be admired from the outside without difficulty, as it is located in the heart of the village.

Gobiendes and its surroundings invite us to a different kind of tourism. The portico of this church revives an ancient sensation, one of those that the body recognises instantly. From there, the view opens up to the imposing Sierra del Sueve. A backdrop that changes with every cloud.