Camín Real de la Mesa

A region can preserve its identity through its landscape, as is the case in this area, where sustainability is not a passing fad, but the natural way of living in the world. The Camín Real de la Mesa, which links the highlands of León with the Atlantic valleys, was once a route taken by Romans, muleteers, pilgrims and kings. Today, it remains the thread that binds the region together for those seeking places with soul. In the La Peña cave – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – the bison painted thousands of years ago stand as silent witnesses to a past that has not entirely faded away. Everywhere you hear the lloqueros (cowbells) of the cattle; there are strawberries and ancient spelt, bears, glacial lakes and mountain pastures. Time moves slowly, in tune with the good life and the well-tended land.

The Camín Real de la Mesa is one of the main arteries of inland Asturias, where history is felt at every step. Every inch of land, every bend in the path, bears the name given to it by those who travelled through these parts for centuries, or by those who chose to settle here.

Braña de La Pornacal – Somiedo.

The earliest settlers left their mark in the rock-shelter sites of Santo Adriano and Fresnedo (in the Trubia Valleys), but the true Palaeolithic sanctuary is La Peña Cave, in Candamo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On its famous ‘Wall of Engravings’, bison, deer and horses emerge from overlapping lines, like an ancient thought that has not yet finished expressing itself. To explore this world without compromising the fragility of the originals, the Teverga Prehistory Park offers a meticulous recreation of this and other sites in the region, allowing visitors to fully appreciate the symbolism of Asturian prehistory.

Very close to this park lies Cueva Huerta, one of the largest caves in Asturias with over 20 km of explored galleries. Although no prehistoric paintings or remains have been found, it is believed that it may have been inhabited thousands of years ago. Designated a Natural Monument in 2002, it is notable for its geological formation and for being home to one of the largest bat colonies in Spain. Its interior is divided into several levels and is criss-crossed by underground rivers.

In the mountain ranges of this region, Neolithic communities also buried their dead beneath stone burial mounds, leaving behind numerous traces: necropolises, stone circles and stelae.

The Camín Real de la Mesa, a Roman road dating from the 1st century BC (the northern branch of the Vía de la Plata), was the backbone linking the plateau and the Cantabrian Sea, a vital artery for empires, kingdoms and rebels. It was along this route that the Muslim commander Munuza attempted to flee following his defeat at Covadonga, and it was along this route that transhumant shepherds and traders travelled for centuries. It also served as a route for the pilgrimage to Santiago, both for those following the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo/Uviéu and for those seeking to join the Camino de la Costa. Along its route stand gems of Asturian pre-Romanesque art, such as Santo Adriano de Tuñón and San Pedro de Nora; and examples of rural Romanesque architecture, such as the Collegiate Church of San Pedro and Santa María de Villanueva in Teverga, or San Pedro de Arrojo in Quirós.

Horse riders on the Primitive Route – Las Regueras.

The route of this ancient path was maintained and improved by the Asturian monarchs and, later, by the Catholic Monarchs, who were aware of its strategic importance. And meanwhile, a totemic tree: the Bermiego Yew (Quirós), a Natural Monument with over a thousand years behind it, observes the historical developments of this land with the composure of a sage.

Today, the Camín Real de la Mesa is a hiking map which, amongst many other routes, allows you to follow the very same path once used by Roman troops and muleteers. Its original route, linking Torrestío (León) with Grado, can be covered in four or five stages, passing through landscapes such as the Puerto de la Mesa, the Teverga mountain pastures, the Caldoveiro mountain range, the Sierra del Aramo and the Grado floodplains. But there is a whole world of other options that allow you to enjoy the same landscape at a different pace and with a different destination in mind: livestock tracks, greenways, reservoirs or old mining routes. Many of these options are ideal for cycle touring along El Camín Real de la Mesa.

Cyclists by the Valdemurio–Quirós reservoir.

Whichever route we take, we will never pass through just any old landscape here. Everything is nestled within a landscape of immense ecological and scenic value, spread across two exceptional natural parks: the Las Ubiñas-La Mesa Natural Park and the Somiedo Natural Park – the former being the first to be designated in Asturias, in 1988. Both form part of UNESCO’s World Network of Biosphere Reserves, and although they are different, with their own characteristics that make them unique, they complement one another and make the region a leading destination for active tourism and ecotourism.

The Camín Real de la Mesa offers routes for all levels, from gentle walks to technical mountaineering. The Peña Ubiña massif, with peaks exceeding 2,400 metres, is ideal for the most demanding fitness levels. In contrast, the Senda del Oso, which is much more family-friendly, follows the route of a former mining railway and runs along the Trubia Valley, linking Proaza, Quirós, Teverga and Santo Adriano. It is perhaps the Principality’s most famous greenway: well signposted and with a good surface, it features recreational areas for rest stops and is accessible to walkers and cyclists. It starts in Tuñón (Santo Adriano) and branches off in a ‘Y’ shape towards two equally appealing destinations: Cueva Huerta, in Teverga, and Ricao, in Quirós. It passes through tunnels, over bridges, across fertile plains, through villages and through woods, with its most visited spot being the enclosure where Molina the bear lives. The Valdemurio reservoir, right in the heart of this trail, is the perfect place to take a break and enjoy nature whilst paddling on its calm waters.

Villanueva and the Trubia River Valley – Santo Adriano.

Further south, the path becomes shady and deep. The Montegrande Beech Forest, in Teverga, is one of the finest examples of mature Atlantic forest, with a dim, leafy atmosphere that leads to the Xiblu Waterfall, a spectacular vertical cascade that restores the walker’s spirit.

If you’re looking for thrills packed into a small space, the Desfiladero de las Xanas won’t disappoint. Known as the ‘mini Cares’, it’s a short but spectacular route. In around 2 or 3 hours, you’ll follow a path carved into the rock, featuring tunnels, bridges and dizzying views over the River Viescas, before venturing into a lush forest.

Higher up, the Marabio Passes form a limestone plateau designated a Natural Monument. A landscape of sinkholes, vast pastures, mountain pastures and lagoons, it is ideal for family walks or for cycling amongst free-roaming livestock and along centuries-old paths. The Picu Caldoveiro (1,351 m), the highest point of these mountain passes, also gives its name to a 11,000-hectare mountain range that is a Protected Landscape.

On the eastern flank of the region, the Puerto de Agüeria route, which sets off from Llindes (Quirós), offers mountaineers a challenging trek through limestone, beech forests and sheepfolds, until reaching a pure and solitary alpine landscape.

The village of Lindes – Quirós.

The municipality of Somiedo has historically been a place where two very different rural communities have coexisted: the resident, sedentary people of Somiedo; and the ‘vaqueiros de alzada’, transhumant herders whose way of life is based on seasonal migration between the low-lying valleys and the high-altitude pastures. The beautiful Braña de La Pornacal, together with the equally beautiful pastures of Mumián and Sousas, embody the essence of the vaqueiro world and its way of life.

Walking trail at Alto de la Farrapona – Somiedo.

Further up, the Saliencia Lakes await us – glacial gems set in a pristine and unchanging landscape. From the Alto de la Farrapona (1,708 m), you can set off on a 14-kilometre (return) route to explore the four main lakes: La Cueva, Cerveriz, La Mina and the imposing Calabazosa, or Lago Negro, the largest and deepest of them all. The trail, which is of medium difficulty, offers spectacular views and also links up with Lago del Valle, another of the most iconic spots in this Biosphere Reserve – this latter lake can also be visited separately, via a highly recommended route of just 6 kilometres, which begins in the village of Valle de Lago.

In this lake-filled landscape, at an altitude of 1,600 metres, the transhumance pilgrimage is held every 21 September to pay tribute to that ancient nomadic activity of herding Merino sheep, which linked Castile and Extremadura via the pastures of the Somedano region (from the Middle Ages until well into the 20th century).

In autumn, the forests of Somiedo and parts of the region fill with visitors drawn by the bellowing of the stags; and in spring, with a bit of luck and plenty of patience, you can enjoy spotting brown bears in the wild as they make their way down the slopes, dig for roots or graze amongst the gorse. There are various active tourism agencies in the area offering a wide range of nature experiences, such as wildlife spotting itself.

Wildlife watching during the rutting season – Proaza.

In the heart of this region, scattered amongst mountains and valleys, lie some of the most distinctive and representative villages of rural Asturias. From Oviedo/Uviéu, these places can be reached by car in journeys lasting between half an hour and an hour and a half, depending on the destination. The A-63 leads to Grau/Grado, whilst the AS-228 and AS-227 roads connect with the rest of the municipalities.

Walkers, cycle tourists and nature lovers in general will find all kinds of accommodation: charming rural cottages, family-run hotels and guesthouses, holiday flats, hostels and mountain refuges.

Country cottage in the hills – Santo Adriano.

The region’s cuisine is based on local produce and traditional recipes. Hearty dishes such as pote de berzas (cabbage stew), Asturian veal, game, spelt bread or cheeses such as Afuega’l pitu, which has Protected Designation of Origin status, and homemade sweets such as borrachinos or rice pudding. It is simple, flavourful cuisine, closely linked to the landscape, livestock and life in the mountain pastures.

A tour of the most notable towns takes us first to Grau/Grado, the capital of the ‘Moscona’ region and the liveliest town in the whole area. La Primera Flor is a major traditional fair held after Easter and has been recognised as a Festival of Tourist Interest in the Principality. It includes the Asturian Faba Competition, featuring IGP-certified beans, numerous festive activities and a very popular pilgrimage to welcome in spring. Meanwhile, the Grau/Grado market, which brings the town to life every Wednesday and Sunday, is the oldest in Asturias. It originated along the pilgrimage routes — the Way of St James and the Camín Real de la Mesa — and is still thriving today, offering traditional cured meats, mature cheeses, ‘bollos preñaos’ and spelt bread. In the villages to the east of the municipality, spelt (one of the oldest varieties of wheat known to humankind) is still sown by hand and threshed using traditional threshing boards. Old kneading troughs, ovens and mills associated with the traditional artisanal production of these breads can still be seen in this area.

Primera Flor Market – Grado.

The municipality of Belmonte de Miranda offers an unusual sense of tranquillity, free from noise and the hustle and bustle, and a way of life centred on livestock farming, hunting and river fishing in the salmon reserves of the River Pigüeña, a tributary of the Narcea. In the municipal capital stands the Aula del Oro, a highly visual and entertaining centre that tells the story of gold mining in Belmonte, from the Bronze Age to the present day. There are replicas of jewellery from the Castreña period, genuine minerals and even a small ‘archaeodrome’ where you can try your hand at excavation. Without leaving the municipality, a must-see is the Miranda hydroelectric power station, one of the jewels of Asturias’ industrial heritage. Built in the mid-20th century, the architect Joaquín Vaquero Palacios designed it with a monumental and theatrical approach, which you can admire in all its glory thanks to a guided tour(opens in a new tab).

To speak of Candamo is to delve into one of the most fertile valleys in central-western Asturias. Situated on the banks of the River Nalón, which flows through it from south to north, it is a predominantly rural municipality, famous for its market gardens, its prehistoric cave and its strawberries, which have their very own festival every spring.

Strawberry Festival – Candamo.

The municipality of Las Regueras is dotted with farmsteads and rolling hills, and its most significant centre is Santullano. The Romanesque church of Santa María, the Roman archaeological site at Andayón and the mill trail are examples of this municipality’s unassuming yet rich heritage. Furthermore, the Primitive Way passes through Las Regueras on its first stage from Oviedo, covering a distance of just 13 kilometres but offering major cultural highlights such as the aforementioned pre-Romanesque church of San Pedro de Nora and the Roman Baths of Valduno, one of the best-preserved Roman baths in rural Asturias. The site is situated next to the church of Santa Eulalia de Valduno and has been adapted for visitors.

The Corroriu Windmills Trail – Quirós.

Proaza and Santo Adriano, both situated on the River Trubia, are strategic spots for family hiking thanks to the Senda del Oso trail, but they also boast heritage gems such as Banduxu (Proaza), a hamlet considered the oldest and best-preserved in Asturias due to its medieval quarter; featuring the 11th-century Tuñón Tower and the Church of Santa María, both designated as Sites of Cultural Interest. In Santo Adriano, the La Ponte Ecomuseum offers a critical and participatory perspective on rural life, addressing themes such as oral tradition, gender and territory through an open and dynamic educational approach. We must not forget this municipality’s pre-Romanesque gem: the church of Santo Adriano de Tuñón, nor the medieval bridge at Villanueva which, due to its appearance and construction, is often referred to as ‘Roman’ and is a little gem of traditional engineering. Also in Villanueva, we find an outstanding example of Asturian rural Romanesque architecture: the church of San Romano (12th–13th centuries). It retains its original structure, and its interior features preserved wall paintings.

View of Bárzana – Quirós.

Quirós, Teverga and Somiedo, with their respective main towns of Bárzana, San Martín and Pola de Somiedo, are true bastions of Asturian ethnography. A variety of venues help to showcase this heritage. The Quirós Ethnographic Museum, housed in the former Las Agüeras power station, recreates the valley’s agricultural, mining and textile heritage, in harmony with the surrounding landscape. The Somiedo Ecomuseum delves into the vaqueira culture: the teitos (traditional shelters), spinning tools, and the routes of transhumance and rural exodus. In Teverga, organised adventure activities allow visitors to ride up to the mountain pastures on horseback, and thus experience ‘the life of a vaqueiro’ first-hand.

La Pola de Somiedo – Somiedo.

Yernes y Tameza, the smallest and least populated municipality in the region, is precisely for this reason the best preserved. A bastion of authenticity amidst chestnut groves, livestock farms, vegetable gardens and well-preserved traditional architecture featuring hórreos, paneras and teitos, which still form part of the everyday landscape.

The Camín Real de la Mesa region is a place of perfect balance between human life and a living landscape. For anyone looking for more than just a selfie with a view, this is their dream destination.